South Face, Rebuffat Climber's Log

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astrange - May 2, 2016 9:49 am Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2010

Classic  Sucess!

Huge Classic - Great route!


MtnMagic - Oct 7, 2013 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2013

Rebuffat  Sucess!

Superb climbing, well protected. Just plain fun.


AlbertoRampini - Sep 2, 2012 10:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1982

Rebuffat   Sucess!

A great route.


lavaka - Aug 1, 2012 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2012

Great route  Sucess!

With Garrett. Did the original/direct start and found this to be very hard; tried the crux several times, then aided it, and it felt like 6a (5.10a) *with* pulling on gear. In contrast, the "6a" pitches afterwards felt much, much easier (took me 50 min to lead the first pitch, about 8 minutes to lead the 2nd "crux" pitch).

Also for the direct start, this topo suggested you go straight up to the little pillar just below the crux. I looked at this, and it's doable, and you could take a small traverse left just below the pillar where it looked like you'd get gear. But turns out you can't get gear there; much better to go about 15 feet left, go up, and then traverse right to the pillar.

For the upper route, I made a little topo that shows how we did the upper section. There's a fantastic large crack/dihedral on basically the last pitch.


PeteThompson - Aug 27, 2010 11:22 am

South Face, Rebuffat. Climbed July 1986  Sucess!

Climbed with German guy as a warm up for the Gervasutti. Nice route.


pablo - Aug 23, 2010 3:21 am Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2010

South Face, Rebuffat  Sucess!

2 ropes with Nico and Aure; and Francois, Florence and I got up in this thrilling, superb and demanding climb. Probably the best rock-climb ever !


granjero - Sep 9, 2009 9:51 pm

Awesome!  Sucess!

France's version of Third Pillar, except with beer at the top!

Jeroen Vels

Jeroen Vels - Jul 31, 2006 5:20 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2006

Fun route!!!  Sucess!

Climbed it on the first day I was in Chamonix. Hard work without proper acclimatisation ;-)

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