South Face

Page Type
France, Europe
Route Type:
Rock to grade III
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: Jul 31, 2002
Last Edited On: Jul 27, 2004


The base of the climb is a couloir in the centre of the South face, rising out of the Moine glacier. This is reached in 30 minutes from the Couvercle hut, or in two and a half hours from Montenvers.

Route Description

Slim on description for the moment - sorry! Guidebook description to follow.
The route can be difficult to find, so make sure you take a guidebook or notes with you. The climb is described in detail in the second volume of the Mont Blanc Massif guidebook. 3.5 hours up, descent by the same route; similar time needed.
The view from the top is stunning! a 360 degree panorama from the aiguilles rouges, clockwise to the drus, aiguille verte, droites, courtes, grandes jorasses, dent du géant, mont blanc, aiguille du midi, plan and requin and the mer de glace. Certainly one of the best vistas in the Alps.
If you head directly upwards as much as possible, you will leave the prescribed route fairly rapidly, and find much more interesting (and less polished) stuff, with a grade IV+ jamming crack (my nuckles are still scabbed..!), but as I say, guidebook description to follow soon.

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons essential for the approach.
Single 60m rope or twin 45m ropes (useful in descent), assortment of slings, mixed rack of rocks / jamming devices, and it might be useful to carry some abseil tat too. Plenty of natural protection; fantastic rock.
You will need a helmet - medium-high risk of stonefall from parties above you.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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georgen - Jul 25, 2010 9:07 am - Voted 7/10


AD-,tricky route finding,pitches III+,abseils on descent,3.5 hours to the top is very,very fast time.4.5 hours at least.

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