South Face

Page Type
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical Rock Climb (Trad)
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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South Face
Created On: Sep 14, 2003
Last Edited On: Sep 14, 2003


Once parked work toward I-84 following paths to the south. There are a few that lead to the edge of the freeway so pick one based on where you park and head south/southwest until you hit the freeway. If you bear too much west you may find that there is water between you and your destination so bear more south than west. Once alongside the freeway approximately 1/8 mile from where you gained the roadside start looking for a trail that travels north into the woods. Follow this trail to the base of Rooster Rock. The start of the route is on the south side of Rooster Rock.

Route Description

Pitch 1:

Either scramble up easy 4th class or belay due to exposure to ledge up and right (east) of start of climb. Ledge has bolted belay. Ledge can be seen from below.

Pitch 2:

Head up and right (east) along obvious gully to ridge (5.4). Travel west along ridge to summit. Solid bolts & rap chains on summit.

Essential Gear

2 60 meter ropes
Set of nuts
Set hexs
Light set cams (small to Med)
8 - 10 Slings

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-4 of 4


cluck - Sep 28, 2003 4:25 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Actually, you don't need dual 60 meter ropes to rap off. Two 50 meter ropes reach the ground just fine.

Or, you can rap to the bolt at the top of pitch #1 with one 60 meter rope and rap a second time to the ground.

I've even rapped with one 50 meter rope and had to disconnect from rappel to scramble over to the belay bolt unroped.

peakbagger4 - Sep 30, 2003 4:01 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Cluck is right that you can do all the above with a little swinging, unroped exposed scrambilng, etc. However, to safely reach the trail below without any hassels I still suggest 2 60 Meter ropes if available. Belay #1 and the rap anchors are not inline with each other.


cluck - Oct 1, 2003 12:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Yeah, trying to incorporate the belay bolt in 2 rappels is tricky. But you don't need 2 60's to reach the trail safely in one rap. Two 50 meter ropes will also reach the trail safely in one rappel from the chains on top.

Brian Jenkins

Brian Jenkins - Apr 12, 2004 12:16 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Don't take the first trail north from the highway you come to that goes up the small ridge to the East Face. Instead, walk along the highway past the "Portland 22 miles" sign and go the the small "Adopt A Highway Program" sign. At that point, find the trail that heads right (north) down into a small brambly and swampy area. This trail will take you to the South Face climb.

Viewing: 1-4 of 4

South Face

3 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 4 Additions & Corrections


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