South Face

Page Type
Troms, Norway, Europe
Route Type:
Snow with a touch of rock.
Time Required:
Most of a day
35 to 45 degree snow\ice.

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South Face
Created On: Apr 14, 2004
Last Edited On: Mar 11, 2006


See the "Getting There" section for directions to Bjørnskardalen. After parking, find a faint trail\path used by snowmobiles in the winter, and berry pickers in the summer. There are 3 large moraines in the valley. Top out on the first two, and on the last and largest head left, which eventually becomes a lateral moraine. Follow the lateral moraine until the end of the moraine past a large coulior system. The hike\ski in is about 5.5 kilometers.

Route Description

After passing the large coulior, look for a black pyramid to the right of the coulior, the route passes under and to the right of this pyramid. Pick through exposed and icy rocks, but don't go too far right, as this slope is avalanche prone. Enter a broad chute that passes to the right of the coulior. Inside this chute is a large mass or rock about the size of a passenger jet. This can be passed on the right or left, whichever seems easiest. The summit is up and to the right of this rock. If you top out too soon, it's simple to traverse to the right. Descend by the same route, or if conditions are great, ski straight down from the summit to the head of the valley. The average angle on the ski descent is about 30 degrees.

This route has the least danger of avalanches. The coulior to the left, or the open slopes to the right are much more avalanche prone. The coulior isn't much more difficult, though the traverse to the true summit involves some easy mixed climbing.

Essential Gear

Stortinden: Ice Axe, possibly Crampons.
Bjørnskardtinden: Randonee or Telemark gear, Ice Axe if icy.