South Face

Approach

See the main page for directions to the base of the south side of the peak. Scramble up a short class 2-3 section of rock to a scree slope, which is followed up to a steep, narrow trough.

Route Description

Climb up the trough, past a fixed piton about twenty feet up, and continue straight up to a crack. Either follow the crack (less exposed but loose rock), or climb the face to the right (exposed and unprotected, but better rock), to its end. From the end of the crack, traverse left a few feet to an alcove and established rappel station (as of January 2006, several slings/cordalettes/rap rings on a large boulder).

From the alcove, crawl through a cave/tunnel (watch for loose rock!) to a wide ledge. A vertical squeeze chimney is found here. (The chimney is extremely narrow, and it seems doubtful that an overweight person could climb it). Climb this for about twenty feet to its top, and move right over class 2 boulders to the highpoint.

To descend, retrace your steps.

The climbing is easy and most of the underlying rock solid, but there's just enough scree on the holds--and just enough holds break off when you test them--to make the climb quite spicy. Caution is advised. Most will want to rappel rather than downclimb.

Essential Gear

A short rope is useful to rappel; a 35m rope suffices to get you past the crux portions. If you opt to rope up for the climb, mid-sized Camalots would be useful to protect the crack. The chimney is sufficiently narrow that it would be difficult, if not impossible, to fall here; it seems unnecessary to belay or rappel this.

There is considerable loose rock on the route, and helmets would be wise.

Images

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