South Face Additions and Corrections

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mtnfreak - Sep 29, 2012 7:11 pm - Voted 8/10

Route beta

While you can climb this in just a bit more than two full 60m rope-lengths, the terrain and distance makes communication and rope drag a real problem. If you can change-over quickly at transitions, you can climb this route just as fast in four 100' pitches instead, utilizing the rappel stations.
P1 - 5.4, 100'
P2 - 5.4, 75'
P3 - 4th class steps between several large ledges. Many teams choose to coil up the rope and simul-scramble through the easiest line. Another option is to hug the left side, providing for a 100' of nice 4th class climbing to the final headwall.
P4 - a 4th class finish is available on the Right side, with a rappel station at the top. 50' of 2nd class to the summit.
An alternative - and more fun - finish is to go the Left side of the headwall and climb the Catwalk, traversing up and left to the Left edge of the headwall, then following the rip to the summit blocks. A great horn immediately below the summit is an awesome terrain belay feature. 5.4, 100'.

Descent - 4 x 25m rappels utilizing slung trees with rappel rings. The second rappel - P3 - could be down-scrambled instead, depending on your comfort level. The final rappel - P1 - is a full 30m.

I would recommend following the approach trail from here, especially in late season. It is possible to rappel from the notch at the start of the route into Pineapple Basin in two 100' raps. These rappels are also quite possibly the most rock-fall hazardous part of the climb, enough so that I stop using the rappels when the snow has melted out. Scrambling/hiking back the way you come is just as fast, and much less hazardous.


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