South Face Climber's Log

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jaredkrauss - Jul 14, 2015 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015

The Tooth Traverse  Sucess!

-Full Traverse- We hiked up over the ridge to the back side, waited for a father and his son to finish rappelling of P1. This was my first alpine multi-pitch. Led P2. Easy, fun, a little exposed.

———Then we decided to descend by traversing. We headed over the ridge extending from the summit. From the end of the ridge we could see across a deep gully to the next section of the ridge where there was some webbing. We figured there must be a way to rappel down from there. We eventually found out that reaching that webbing from the Tooth is nigh impossible.

We ended up descending down the back side of the ridge, through a few gullys and trees. I believe we had two rappels and some scrambling to work our way down to a gully below the webbing. From here we had some sketchy belays down the colouir which my partner said could probably be climbed in the winter. There was evidence of this as our last belay station was off a rusted piton. Like I said, sketchy belays and no where relay to place pro.

We finished at the bottom of the colouir, saving us some walking down the talus. When hiking up the talus to cross around to the south face this colouir is prominent on the north face.

It took about an extra two hours or so, meaning we just barely got on to the trail before we lost all light.

I would probably not do the traverse again, or really recommend it, as it was just okay, and not all that fun. :)

Mike Lewis

Mike Lewis - Jun 20, 2014 12:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014

My first multipitch  Sucess!

4 pitches and 6 rappels with Gimpilator leading his first alpine and my first multi-pitch. Low 5th interspersed with 3/4 except for one or two weird moves near the end. I was nervous but I had good company with all the folks climbing today. Good weather, dry rock and firm snow below.


gimpilator - Jun 20, 2014 12:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014

South Face  Sucess!

It was crowded, even on a weekday, but we still had a blast. My first alpine trad lead.


bcory2003 - Aug 23, 2013 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013

Tooth  Sucess!

Not as crowded as I expected!


haishan - Mar 13, 2013 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012

solo  Sucess!

Solo climb & downclimb... this was a super fun day, winding down after blitz tour through the North Cascades.


jacobsmith - Mar 9, 2013 11:48 pm Date Climbed: Mar 9, 2013

South Face  Sucess!

Found the face in good conditions, still some snow on the lower angle sections and ledges but most of the rock was dry. Some verglas on the lower sections but not problematic and melted as soon as the sun hit those slabs. Fun and easy, even in mountaineering boots.


jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 2:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009


Fun and straightforward climb. All of the exposed sections have great gear. Nice view of Rainier from the summit. Would be fun to climb in the spring and then ski off pineapple pass!


TimmyC - Jul 10, 2010 11:24 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2010

Nice  Sucess!

Now I see why this is a local classic. Great fun, not too terribly technical, and the approach has a distinct alpine feel. Perfect weather, and not too crowded (two folks ahead and two behind).


Darren9 - Nov 7, 2009 2:01 am

OK got it  Sucess!

Fun earlier season climb with some snow and moderate rock. Cool.


esugi - Jun 23, 2008 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008

First on Route!  Sucess!

Left car at 6am. We were first on route. We did it in 4 pitches (with one being just a scramble). No harder then 5.5 on the route we took. Great half day outing. Soaked in the sun for a bit on the summit before heading down.


Krylon - Nov 27, 2006 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2004

Tooth  Sucess!

I lucked out: great day in late season and only one other party on one of the busier routes arounf the pass.


osatrik - Aug 25, 2006 6:35 am

Yup  Sucess!

Everyone does this, but I guess they all sign the peak register instead of the route register. Why not both?

Viewing: 1-12 of 12
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