jaredkrauss - Jul 14, 2015 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015
The Tooth Traverse
-Full Traverse- We hiked up over the ridge to the back side, waited for a father and his son to finish rappelling of P1. This was my first alpine multi-pitch. Led P2. Easy, fun, a little exposed.
———Then we decided to descend by traversing. We headed over the ridge extending from the summit. From the end of the ridge we could see across a deep gully to the next section of the ridge where there was some webbing. We figured there must be a way to rappel down from there. We eventually found out that reaching that webbing from the Tooth is nigh impossible.
We ended up descending down the back side of the ridge, through a few gullys and trees. I believe we had two rappels and some scrambling to work our way down to a gully below the webbing. From here we had some sketchy belays down the colouir which my partner said could probably be climbed in the winter. There was evidence of this as our last belay station was off a rusted piton. Like I said, sketchy belays and no where relay to place pro.
We finished at the bottom of the colouir, saving us some walking down the talus. When hiking up the talus to cross around to the south face this colouir is prominent on the north face.
It took about an extra two hours or so, meaning we just barely got on to the trail before we lost all light.
I would probably not do the traverse again, or really recommend it, as it was just okay, and not all that fun. :)
Mike Lewis - Jun 20, 2014 12:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014
My first multipitch
4 pitches and 6 rappels with Gimpilator leading his first alpine and my first multi-pitch. Low 5th interspersed with 3/4 except for one or two weird moves near the end. I was nervous but I had good company with all the folks climbing today. Good weather, dry rock and firm snow below.
gimpilator - Jun 20, 2014 12:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014
South Face
It was crowded, even on a weekday, but we still had a blast. My first alpine trad lead.
bcory2003 - Aug 23, 2013 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
Tooth
Not as crowded as I expected!
haishan - Mar 13, 2013 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012
solo
Solo climb & downclimb... this was a super fun day, winding down after blitz tour through the North Cascades.
jacobsmith - Mar 9, 2013 11:48 pm Date Climbed: Mar 9, 2013
South Face
Found the face in good conditions, still some snow on the lower angle sections and ledges but most of the rock was dry. Some verglas on the lower sections but not problematic and melted as soon as the sun hit those slabs. Fun and easy, even in mountaineering boots.
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 2:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
Fun
Fun and straightforward climb. All of the exposed sections have great gear. Nice view of Rainier from the summit. Would be fun to climb in the spring and then ski off pineapple pass!
TimmyC - Jul 10, 2010 11:24 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2010
Nice
Now I see why this is a local classic. Great fun, not too terribly technical, and the approach has a distinct alpine feel. Perfect weather, and not too crowded (two folks ahead and two behind).
Fun earlier season climb with some snow and moderate rock. Cool.
esugi - Jun 23, 2008 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008
First on Route!
Left car at 6am. We were first on route. We did it in 4 pitches (with one being just a scramble). No harder then 5.5 on the route we took. Great half day outing. Soaked in the sun for a bit on the summit before heading down.
Krylon - Nov 27, 2006 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2004
Tooth
I lucked out: great day in late season and only one other party on one of the busier routes arounf the pass.
cascadescrambler - Sep 3, 2019 10:27 pm Date Climbed: Jul 9, 1977
South face directThere was backup waiting for the Catwalk, so we decided to go straight up the flakes
rtgomez90 - Jul 30, 2019 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2019
s faceDecent little climb
jaredkrauss - Jul 14, 2015 11:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2015
The Tooth Traverse-Full Traverse- We hiked up over the ridge to the back side, waited for a father and his son to finish rappelling of P1. This was my first alpine multi-pitch. Led P2. Easy, fun, a little exposed.
———Then we decided to descend by traversing. We headed over the ridge extending from the summit. From the end of the ridge we could see across a deep gully to the next section of the ridge where there was some webbing. We figured there must be a way to rappel down from there. We eventually found out that reaching that webbing from the Tooth is nigh impossible.
We ended up descending down the back side of the ridge, through a few gullys and trees. I believe we had two rappels and some scrambling to work our way down to a gully below the webbing. From here we had some sketchy belays down the colouir which my partner said could probably be climbed in the winter. There was evidence of this as our last belay station was off a rusted piton. Like I said, sketchy belays and no where relay to place pro.
We finished at the bottom of the colouir, saving us some walking down the talus. When hiking up the talus to cross around to the south face this colouir is prominent on the north face.
It took about an extra two hours or so, meaning we just barely got on to the trail before we lost all light.
I would probably not do the traverse again, or really recommend it, as it was just okay, and not all that fun. :)
Mike Lewis - Jun 20, 2014 12:59 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014
My first multipitch4 pitches and 6 rappels with Gimpilator leading his first alpine and my first multi-pitch. Low 5th interspersed with 3/4 except for one or two weird moves near the end. I was nervous but I had good company with all the folks climbing today. Good weather, dry rock and firm snow below.
gimpilator - Jun 20, 2014 12:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2014
South FaceIt was crowded, even on a weekday, but we still had a blast. My first alpine trad lead.
bcory2003 - Aug 23, 2013 3:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2013
ToothNot as crowded as I expected!
haishan - Mar 13, 2013 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2012
soloSolo climb & downclimb... this was a super fun day, winding down after blitz tour through the North Cascades.
jacobsmith - Mar 9, 2013 11:48 pm Date Climbed: Mar 9, 2013
South FaceFound the face in good conditions, still some snow on the lower angle sections and ledges but most of the rock was dry. Some verglas on the lower sections but not problematic and melted as soon as the sun hit those slabs. Fun and easy, even in mountaineering boots.
jamesmc2 - Jul 26, 2010 2:03 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2009
FunFun and straightforward climb. All of the exposed sections have great gear. Nice view of Rainier from the summit. Would be fun to climb in the spring and then ski off pineapple pass!
TimmyC - Jul 10, 2010 11:24 am Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2010
NiceNow I see why this is a local classic. Great fun, not too terribly technical, and the approach has a distinct alpine feel. Perfect weather, and not too crowded (two folks ahead and two behind).
Darren9 - Nov 7, 2009 2:01 am
OK got itFun earlier season climb with some snow and moderate rock. Cool.
esugi - Jun 23, 2008 2:48 pm Date Climbed: Jun 15, 2008
First on Route!Left car at 6am. We were first on route. We did it in 4 pitches (with one being just a scramble). No harder then 5.5 on the route we took. Great half day outing. Soaked in the sun for a bit on the summit before heading down.
Krylon - Nov 27, 2006 11:36 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2004
ToothI lucked out: great day in late season and only one other party on one of the busier routes arounf the pass.
osatrik - Aug 25, 2006 6:35 am
YupEveryone does this, but I guess they all sign the peak register instead of the route register. Why not both?