South Gulley Direct

Page Type
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering, Ice Climbing, Mixed
Time Required:
Most of a day

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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South Gulley Direct
Created On: Jan 14, 2007
Last Edited On: Jan 15, 2007


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This route report describes a winter ascent of the South Gulley of Guye Peak, taking a direct line through the mixed bands to reach the false summit. While the difficulties can be passed by traversing to the right, the direct version is a much more interesting climb.

Getting There

West FaceWest Face

Drive to Snoqualmie Pass and follow the signs to Alpental Road. Drive down and park in the lower lot. Hike back down the road then turn left at the second residential road and proceed to the end. Now hike to the east towards the southwest corner of Guye, then traverse up and to the right to reach the southside. Keep traversing beyond a rock band and climb the major gulley to its right.

Route Description

Chimney Pitch

Start by climbing up the initial gulley on 40 degree snow, until it branches about 300 foot up. We took the right hand option, left looks hard. Rope up here and belay a pitch of steep alpine ice, with mixed rock and snow. Bring knifeblades and small nuts for protection. Do not traverse out to the right here. Above this we simulclimbed several hundred feet of 40 degree snow and neve to reach a steep chimney pitch with ice in it. Belay this pitch, then simulclimb several hundred more feet to reach the false summit.

From the false summit, climb and traverse snowfields to reach the south summit. Drop down into the notch, then climb steep exposed snow to reach the middle (highest) summit. From here, drop down into the next notch, then perform one single rope rappel off the tree down and to your right. Now climb the steep couloir back up the other side to obtain the north summit. The descent off the north summit is nontechnical from here.

Essential Gear

2 tools or 1 axe and one third tool
Knifeblade pitons
Small nuts and/or cams
60 meter rope
Lots of 48" slings or webbing for tree slinging

External Links

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