South Gully Ramp, Huntington Ravine

South Gully Ramp, Huntington Ravine

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 44.27060°N / 71.3047°W
Additional Information Route Type: winter/spring snow climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: II
Sign the Climber's Log


Same approach as for South Gully. On the big snow cone below the entrance into the main gully, head right onto a prominent ramp which leads up and diagonally in the direction of Odell's.

Route Description

This isn't really an official route, but it is a good option to know if you're ever in Huntington Ravine without any ice climbing gear, but want to get up onto the Alpine Garden. More interesting and varied than postholing up the Escape Hatch, in my opinion. It's also a good alternative during questionable avalanche conditions, since the small trees that grow sporadically on the ramp help stabilize the snowpack.

Start up the ramp. The ramp steepens to about 35 degrees at one point, and then the angle subsides. At that point, there is sort of a corner; third-class scrambling on rock will take you to Odell's gully from here. My version of the route turns left into something resembling a gully. The first part of this gully is the steepest section of the whole route, approaching 45 degrees at one point. After that the angle eases and increases a number of times, but overall is less steep. Follow the upper gully all the way up towards the Alpine Garden, which it joins close to the top of one of the Odell exit gullies.

Descend either the route, the Escape Hatch, or else down the Lions Head via the Alpine Garden trail.

Essential Gear

ice axe and crampons are required. Most of the time the route can be climbed unroped with reasonable confidence, but during hardpacked conditions you may want a rope and a few pickets (a fall from the steep section above the "corner" could be pretty nasty). In some years, parts of the route could potentially contain ice so in that case, screws would be required.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.