Perfect conditions on the snow, but still some worrying rockfall. Really fun snow climb and a neat summit. With Derek Dalton.
Long day... Thunderstorms started about 11am and kept up off and on all the way back to the TH at 1700.
Perfect weather. Did the Traverse also. Getting down off North maroon was interesting due to the large amount of snow still covering the trail.
Ben, Dan and I climbed the Bell Cord and traversed to the summit of Maroon Peak on a very warm day. We skied from just below the couloir, but not the whole thing becuase of poor snow conditions. We climbed the Bell Cord a week prior and traversed to N Maroon Pk.
7/30/05 - Std route.
7/29/06 - Std route with traverse to North Maroon.
1/20/13 - Climbed the Bell Cord and lived to tell about it.
8/4/17 - Std route with traverse to North Maroon.
This was my first climb of South Maroon. I did the standard South Ridge route. A friendly marmot tried to get in my pack.
From camp at Crater Lake, climbed the South Ridge of South Maroon Peak, performed the traverse to North Maroon Peak, then descended North Maroon's Northeast Ridge back to camp with my friend Keith. Descending Maroon Peak for the start of the traverse was one of the sketchiest parts. Picture steep slabs covered in ball bearings. Slipped and cut my leg on that section - still have the scar five months later.
I climbed both Bells in a day, doing South Maroon first. The route finding wasn't too hard, and we left the rope in the pack all day.
Found North Maroon and the traverse to be relatively easy. I rappelled once, not out of necessity, but more because I'd have hated to carry a rope and not use it. Surprisingly, descending South Maroon was the hard part. I must've been off route. There were cairns around me, but the grass was so steep and slick I felt like I needed a "grass axe" to stop myself if I fell.
Technically easy: Low third.
Physically demanding: its gunna kick your butt.
Fun route finding: If you're off route the solution is almost always to the left (or up and to the left).
Dangerous: It's very loose and a rock kicked off the ridge will roll 2000' before it stops. Put your brain bucket on as soon as you leave the main trail.
And four mountain goats joined us on the summit. Fun day! Fun peak!
With Andy. Quite fun.
There's gravel everywhere along the route, but the climbing rock itself wasn't bad at all. We stayed damn-near true to the crest along the entire traverse, car-to-car'ing the route in 9.5 hours. Solo'd everything.
Oh yeah, route-finding our way off of North Maroon wasn't nearly as bad as we were led to believe. There's an obvious trail for 90% of it.
Talked to a couple of guys who'd done the traverse the day before. Took them 15.5 hours in what they described as perfect weather. Not sure how that's possible.
Great day on a fun route. Bailed on the traverse due to heavy cloud build up early in the AM. Turned out to be a bluebird day...oh well. Two days later on Pyramid under the same conditions the thunderstorms built up as I expected two days earlier.
What a slog. Glad to have knocked this summit off - may I never set foot on that mountain again.
Steep scree slopes up to South Maroon's ridge at ~13,300ft. Made it to the summit by 8:30. Climbed with Dave and Steve Donaldson. Great and long day.
2,800 vertical feet in just over a mile... OUCH. A melt-down at the saddle (at 44 14ers completed, the tough ones are getting to me). Tired from our great ascent of Pyramid the day before. 10:20am, RAIN a'comin:-( Decided to bail 300 feet from the summit as we were slower than we thought and didn't want to be caught in a thunderstorm. Rain let up 20 minutes later, but we were already dropped 600 feet (that had taken us an hour to climb). Bummer. Continued down. Don't need to take my chances. I love my husband more than any mountain summit. Result of this loose, nasty, exposed mountain? We don't want to ever go back. We now have a new "goal" of hitting 50 14ers instead of finishing all 55... may change our minds if we have a brain lapse!:-O
Climbed the standard route with Shanahan96, Jamie Nellis and Denalibound. The ascent had us a little side tracked as we lost the trail up the face in the dark and followed a misleading cairn to a wrong ledge when on the upper mountain. The route was much easier to follow on descent though, and I would say that once you know the route it is actually kind of enjoyable. The ridge crest at the finish was delightfully solid and had some great scrambling. Bailed on the traverse because I didn't trust the clouds.
Weather was perfect all day. Completed the traverse as well.
Did south to north traverse. Epic day. Took rope but never used it. Sketchiest part was the downclimb into the notch, otherwise not too bad. Could easily be made more dicey by forcing another line.
Questionable weather all day. Too much ice/hail build-up on the traverse to make any attempt at the North Peak. Cool mountain though! The downclimb on the east side completely sucked!
What a way to spend the 4th. 2am start got up the Cord around 7am. The climbing wasn't as rotten as I had expected, and I rather enjoyed it, plus the scenery is awesome.