W/ AK 1 70m
Took the 5.6 crack straight up. Avoided the circus by climbing on Friday morning rather than Saturday.
Have now pitched this out and simul-ed it...
So much fun, such a pretty area.
Can easily be done in a day at a moderate pace. There were tons of mountain goats along the way so be aware.
Climbed in 7 hours car to car, could have reduced by 2 if we had not been behind another group. First pitch is basically 4th class, would not have had a problem with free soloing it. Second and third pitches could be linked together with a 70m rope, but we had to wait for another group to finish the third pitch. for some reason the bolts are slung with webbing and rap rings, which are superfluous as they are the heavy-duty metolius bolts you can rap off of directly.
Led the route. What a great confidence booster for me. This was the last dry day of 2012. Summit was amazing.
Ryan and I hiked in on the 10th to climb North Ingalls and Sherpa, hoping for some fun mixed climbing. we bailed on the second pitch after Ryan's second lead fall. there was five inches of powder on the slab and no ice to speak of. an experienced mixed climber with monopoint crampons probably could have made it go, but the weather was deteriorating and daylight was limited so we called it and camped below. travel in these conditions was so difficult and slow that trying to get down to the valley was out of the question, so we just hiked out on sunday.
1hr from ingalls pass. most of the approach (stay on trail until at ingalls lake, then head directly up slabs) is up slabs and well marked path through boulders. route can be done in 2 pitches with a 70m rope. contrary to becky's guide book there are now rap anchors for the route, which can be done in 2 raps even with a 60m rope.
Conditions were ~45F and sleeting, but the climbing went quickly and was enjoyable. Fall is practically here.
Still a lot of snow. We had to go around the first pitch (went left of the big tower) because it was all snow. Rest of the climb was easy but fun and the views were spectacular. With Fred. Hard to believe it's been 34 years since I was here last.
Slippery holds, fun after Mt. Stuart
Fun climb, but not worth the approach IMHO.
Good little rock climb. Great views of Stuart.
Pretty quiet in October. Had a little snow on it from the previous evening's snowfall.
Shirley R took me up this, after we scouted a potential peak to name for Jimmy Hinkhouse. Although ultimately abandoning the naming due to it being in a wilderness, we did climb the south route of Ingalls, me following Shirley's lead, and commmiting the sin of being unroped at the first belay station on our descent. I also remember having forgotten my tent poles, making our camp below Ingalls Pass look a little sick!
Long approach for a moderate climb, but still fun.