South Ridge (Südgrat)

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 46.15840°N / 8.00400°E
Additional Information Route Type: Rock Climb
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: AD (III and IV sections)
Sign the Climber's Log


You have to reach Saas Grund (under Saas Fee) and to take the cableway up to Kreuzboden (Mid-Station). A second cableway takes you up to the top station to Hohsaas (3098m). In the summertime, the first cableway goes up at 8.30 am, but its recommendable to get information about timetable modifications!

From Hohsaas you have to walk over some snow and Ice passages to reach the base of th climb, between the Lagginhorn and the Weissmies.

Route Description

The route is easy at the beginning. Some climb passages of level II needs to be done. The first challenge is a gendarme on which you can walk around or climb (level III).
Now you have to pass some very narrowly and airily places which gives you a good impression of the altitude you already performed. It continous with some level II climbing. The next challanges are two rope down passage, but which may be also climbed.
Most of the following is level II or III climbing, with the option to climb over some gendarmes and rocks of level IV.
Abouot 30 minutes before you arrive to the top of the Lagginhorn, you have to rope down (approx. 20m). All rope down passages are well marked and at this last passage a fix rope (on the left side) is installed.
Once performed this passage, you have just to finish the last 30 minutes (level I and II) up to the top.

The descent may be done by the normal route.

Essential Gear

A 30m rope should be sufficient. There is one rope down passage which may be done with such a rope. Crampons are recommended for the beginning up to the base of the climb. There may be snow and ice passages, but you can also walk on the left side on rocks (not very recommended).
This route may be done from end of June until mid of september. It always depends on the regional snow situation.

It is very important to have a look on the weather. This tour takes you about 7 hours. If it's risk for rain or thunderstorm - do not start for it.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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