South Ridge via Hayden Glacier

Page Type
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
A long day
difficult/steep snow/loose rockglacier
Rock Difficulty:
Class 4

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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South Ridge via Hayden Glacier
Created On: Aug 7, 2008
Last Edited On: Aug 7, 2008

Roping up for the glacier.

The route begins on the southeast side of the mountain on the Hayden glacier, which is actually a part of Middle Sister. The climb proceeds up the north side of the glacier heading west along a prominant hogsback. Travel the glacier until you reach the saddle between Middle Sister and Prouty point a prominant peak directly west at the head of the glacier.

Cross the saddle onto the snowfield that is part of the Renfrow glacier. Travel in a northwest direction losing some elevation as you cross over and descend onto the Collier glacier. From here descend in a northeast direction heading for the south ridge of North Sister. To gain the south ridge you will see a snowfield rising up onto the flanks of the ridge. From here it is a scree scramble directly up or east,then veer left or north to avoid some pesky gendarmes.

Proceed north and to your right around a rock outcropping and continue north along steep path of scree until you reach the base of cliffs near the apex of the souteast and south ridge. The boot track continues north and traverses the west base of the cliffs. It then climbs a loose gulley through a gap and hits a sharp right and heads a few yards east to the base of a prominant gendarme named the Camels Hump. proceed north along the base of the Camels Hump and along the next unnamed gendarme until you reach a gulley. travel right or east climbing up the gulley until you reach the ridge proper. traveling north and to your right to skirt the next gendarme the trail will take you to the base of Prouty pinnacle. Proceed north traversing the left side of pinnacle until you reach an exposed traverse of plate like rocks or snow, or combination of both. It is from here that rope s and pro are mandatory (a slip here would send you hurtling down a gulley to the glacier far below!) Cross the Traverse to the base of a tan pinnacle/buttress of semi solid rock. Ther is a bit of a ramp here that will take you a hard right into the base of the Bowling alley.

Getting There

From the Willamette valley head out on Hwy 22 from Salem, Hwy 20 from Albany Corvallis, and Hwy 126 from Eugene/Springfield. towards the town Of Sisters. Once in Sisters look for the turn off to your right For Oregon scenic byway Hwy 242. Take another right on to 242 heading west for 3 miles then take left turn signed Pole Creek trailhead. Proceed down this road F.S 18 for approximatly 10 miles.

From Bend Drive west on Hwy 20 to the town of Sisters, Take the left for Hwy 242 then proceed on previous directions to Pole Creek.

From Redmond Drive west on Hwy 26 to the town of Sisters, Take left for Hwy 242 then proceed on previous directions to Pole Creek.

Route Description

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Essential Gear

Helmet, Ice axe, Crampons, Harness, Belay device, 60 meter rope, (Pickets, Ice screws, if theres snow and Ice on the ridge or traverse). Webbing, Slings, Carabiners, some Rock Pro may be useful.

External Links

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South Ridge via Hayden Glacier

1 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 2 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections


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