This peak is one wild looking feature! The first pitch is the stiffest, I'd say 5.9/5.10a. The roof move higher up is 10.a, with the rest of the climb feeling 5.7/5.8 The climb is a gem, well worth the time.
One of the very best routes I have ever climbed. Wow!
This is a classic climb in an amazing area. There is a new-ish guide out that gives the climb a grade of 5.10a, don't let this scare you away if you're a 5.9 climber. This is certainly not a great introductory climb for the 5.9 climber, so I would recommend at least a basic amount of experience. Having said that, this climb is pitch after pitch of pure unadulterated fun. Go get it!
I've climbed this route a few times, but the first time was in the beginning of June. This is a very early ascent - we started slab avalanches on our descent off the summit. But once we hit the gully, we glissaded all the way back down. This is an absolutely classic alpine route.