Toti, although more beautiful when viewed from the east in the valley, it is most easily climbed from the west. To reach the summit, one must climb the glacier and then ascend the rocky summit. From the east there are at least two known routes to the summit: the easy normal route (described here) that climbs the south side of the rock to the summit and a more direct class 5 (YDS) climb on the northern side of the rock mass. The normal route is fun class 3 can be done from Laguna Grande de la Sierra in less than 1/2 a day. The top offers spectacular views of the surrounding region.
Approach and Route Description
The west side of Toti is best reached from Laguna Grande de la Sierra ("the great lake of the Sierra"). Take the trail and camp either in the caves, at the shores of the lake, or closer near the base of the Pan de Azúcar glacier. Circumambulate the lake to the south and hike up the rocks that lead to the base of the glacier.
At the base of the glacier, gear up with crampons and an ice axe (rope up if crevasses are covered) and climb up to the south base of the summit pinnacle. From here, climb a class 3-4 chimney to some easier rocks. Continue traversing across the west side until a small permanent snow patch is countered. Carefully cross the field and climb up the easy rocks to the your right. Another snow patch is reached; climb again to the crest of the ridge. From here ascend the obvious route to the summit. From the base of the rocks to the summit takes ~30 minutes.
To cross the glacier, an ice axe and crampons are required. If the glacier is covered with snow and any crevasses cannot be seen, it would be wise to rope up for the glacier. solo the rocks
External Links and additional info
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anyone who has any info of any other routes on Toti, please feel free to post add a route page.