On the glissade down, nothing but terrible ice. Then when I finally did, it ripped my pants. Well at least I had fun.
Didn't make it but I will be back! Broken middle finger and no crampons with icy condtions turned me around at False Summit. I have yet to be rewarded with that "best glissade in the nation". I look forward to it!
Adams is amazing and beautiful. My partner didn't make it past base camp but that didn't stop me from soloing the upper mountain. Got up there before sunrise though. Made for chilly weather and bad pictures. Lesson learned.
This was my first Cascade volcano climb. I would highly suggest the South Spur route to those who are interested in climbing one of these peaks but would like to start out gradually before trying Mt Rainier or others. We were very lucky with the weather - I was expecting more cold and wind, but it was a pleasant surprise. We (a party of 3) camped at 9200' at Lunch Counter - just at the base of the main snowfield. I highly recommend doing that. I read some reports where people criticized lugging gear up the mountain when it is unnecessary. I am very happy that we did. The experience of sleeping high on the mountain is quite a thrill for those who don't do it often. Plus, it puts you ahead in front of the crowds. We started the climb up the main snowfield at 2:45AM, and we were the first to do so. A group of three others followed us, and two of them passed us by the time we arrived at the summit at 6:15AM. An early start was definitely key to avoiding the masses. On the glissade back down to Lunch Counter, there were LOTS of people coming up. Start early and don't be in a hurry!
A note about gear... I was torn between hiking and mountaineering boots. Since the weather was so warm (35F was the low at Lunch Counter), I opted for my hikers - Asolo Fugitive GTX in combination with Black Diamond Contact Strap crampons. I know, the Fugitives are B0 rated and don't have a full shank, but they worked comfortably and efficiently. If the weather was more serious or the route less defined, a mountaineering boot would be required. The BD Contact Straps bit into the crusty snowpack during the moonlit ascent. For glissading, bring a pair of slick nylon shorts - go to the thrift store before hand. I thought the ice axe was necessary for glissading down the main snowfield. I had to self-arrest several times because the speed was getting a little too fast. I think it would be difficult to do that with trekking poles only.
For those needing to rent gear, Next Adventures in Portland has ice axes, helmets, crampons, boots, etc. Portland State University rents those plus mountaineering tents (we took a Mountain Hardware Trango 3 - overkill with the weather we had, but nice and roomy!). I was very happy with Next Adventures and PSU! Per posting guidelines, I am in no way affiliated with either - I'm just satisfied with my experience and want to pass that on to others who might be in need of some rental gear.
Camped at ~8600' the night before. Left camp at 5:15 and ascended in great conditions. Perfect weather all day. Beautiful summit!
The weather was good, but the day was long. FZTE and I arrived at the trailhead very late in the evening and we each only got a solid 1h30m of sleep. This made the route more of a grind than it needed to be, but we made it. I was one of the first climbers to reach the summit that day, and FZTE still made the summit despite a lingering stomach ailment that nearly ended his ascent. The glissades down from Pikers Peak were awesome! This was my 24th WA CoHP completed.
sweet climb 2nd of the cascade volcanoes this is the one that got me hooked on climbing
Bagged right after St. Helens, 9 mile approach and bands of dirt and snow made it all hell. Beautiful summit day and made great friends.
Did this in two days. camped a lunch counter, then went to the top the next day.
Very fun and rewarding route to the lunch counter.
Glissade on ice resulted in the most painful injury of my climbing career.
Most of glissade routes were gone but the mountain was still a lot of fun. See trip report.
Started at 5:15 AM and summited 10 hrs later. I was with a group of 11 first time climbers and was able to teach them the basics of ice ax and crampon use. It was a great place for learning with great snow conditions. There was about a foot of new snow above Pikers peak and the summit was covered in rime ice. Arrived back at the car at 8:30 PM. It was a great day.
Left Cold Springs Campground at 5:15 a.m.. Made the Lunch Counter by 9:30 a.m. Felt a little tired, so I rested for 30 minutes, melted some bug-infested snow and ate some peanut butter and crackers. Launched up the South Spur and realized there was no need for crampons and ice-axe. I was getting good snow purchase as it was softening. Dropped pack at Piker's Peak and made the summit by noon. Only one on the summit at the time. Felt Great!! Tremendous glissading adventure down the Spur. Got some good wilderness navigation practice on the way back down to Trail #183.
Wasn't hot. No walled rock shelters anywhere, just camped
in the snow at Timberline. Why would anybody want to pack
overnite gear up to the Lunch Counter? Please allow three
days if at all possible. Bring goggles in case the winds
come up. The weather can change in an instant. (If you
go in early season, you can glissade halfway down the mountain.)
It was extremely hot today. I brought just under two gallons of water and nearly drank it all. I don't know why anyone would want to lug up all the overnight gear for this non-technical route unless they just enjoy overnight trips. Early starts are key.
A cloudless day with almost no wind. This will be one I will be remembering for a long time.
A great experience on Mount Adams for the first time!
A very enjoyable trip. Memorable for the great family I was with!
Best glissading in the Cascades :)