South Summit Couloir

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 40.30700°N / 111.588°W
Additional Information Route Type: Snow
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 3
Sign the Climber's Log


Take I-15 to the 800 North Exit in Orem (exit 275). Turn east onto 800 North, and continue toward Provo Canyon. As you enter Provo Canyon, 800 North will transition into an onramp onto US Highway 189 which travels up Provo Canyon.

From the mouth of Provo Canyon, travel 1.9 miles and on the right you'll see an asphalt turnoff which is the road to Squaw Peak. Follow this road and it will split into two asphalt roads. The right fork goes to the Squaw Peak lookout and the left fork goes to Hope Campground. Go left. The road begins as asphalt and then turns into a well-maintained dirt road.

As you travel on this road across the west face of Cascade Peak, look for the southern-most couloir on the west face. The dirt road will travel fairly close to the base of the couloir. Park on the side of the road and begin the bushwhacking. 

Click for the Full Trip Report on my photography website.

Route Description

The first portion of this route will require some good bushwacking as you approach the couloir, depending on the time of year you attempt it. During the summer this route has too many waterfalls and cliffs, but during the spring all of those obstructions are covered with snow and avalanche remains. It is recommended to climb the couloir in the spring. During the winter the avalanche danger is far too high.

The couloir will lead you directly to the summit ridge. Follow the ridge north to Cascade's summit. Climb this route as early in the morning as possible. Loose rocks come rocketing down the couloir as the snow softens (we had a few close calls around 2pm on our way down).

Essential Gear

In the spring, crampons and ice axes are necessary. Other than that it is just basic scrambling.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.



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