With Kevin and Big Al, three on a rope worked out pretty well, although I felt like a wishbone when I was tied in the center. Surprisingly, easier than I expected with no drama (other than our exit in the dark). Much simul climbing and parties getting backed up. The last pitch to the summit really pumped me up on lead, was thrilled to get into the chimney and relax! Would totally do this one again! Happy to have tagged South Summit, North Summit, and scrambled down the north ridge just as the sun was setting.
Such a classic traverse with a little bit of everything. Will do it again someday.
Lead 6 pitches and simul- climbed the rest, with Mike Chen. Fantastic day. Easy enough until the 5.7 section, where dropping the pack was key.
Standard South-to-North traverse with Ryan. Simulclimbed except for the North Summit pitch. Rapped off the North Summit in a light rain. Nice rock, incredible views, - classic traverse!
Soloed all but the N tower pitch. We made it to within a few hundred meters of the north end of the ridge, but couldn't see a reasonable downclimb along the ridge and walked off west. Continued on to Cathedral and Eichorn for the tri-fecta... great day!
still haven't done the second half, after the summit.
After chickening out at the crux last year, I finally nailed it this time around. Awesome climb! Trip report.
Spectacular climb with Jonathan! Just outstanding, all around. The 5.7 section to gain the summit was stout for the rating - I agree.
It was a long day for us and we had to bail at the north summit because it was getting late. Next time I will do the full ridge with less belayed climbing. Did the 5.7 diagonal crack to the North summit. Felt hard.
The classic part of the traverse (south to peak) is perfect; the hyped traverse from peak to north is chossy and only has one excellent section (the wave) I was happy to solo the whole first half but due to rock quality was glad to rope up on the 2nd half. north 1/2 is not as classic as its hype, though the southern 1/2 certainly is. perfect rock and cool views. exposed but not terrifying...did the 5.9ow variation to the summit, which was very soft for the grade and well protected with a couple link cams...Sept 2010
Led two pitches to the crest, and simul-climbed to the North Summit at about the same speed as some of the other soloists. The 5.7 knob/crack pitch was a bit much with a heavy pack on so I had to ditch it at the notch to finish the pitch - stout!
Climbed sometime in the last century (mid-90s) with Andrew Mullis. Simul-climbed the entire route with the exception of the final tower, which had a couple of moves I thought were pretty stiff for 5.7. Wonderful, wonderful scenery and vistas.
Back again for another solo of the full S > N traverse with Jascha. Only one other party on the route.
Very fun route. We belayed 3 pitches of it and stayed roped for the traverse...in retrospect, it is probably best to free solo the ridge section.
After getting on the South and North Summit we rapped down. Some friends joined us on the North summit and carried on for the rest of the northern part of the ridge....Next time!
Soloed the full S > N traverse (minus the final small tower) in 3 hours with Jascha. Brought a 30m, but left it in the pack when we found the crux to be a boulder problem. Started off disconcertingly windy, but then the winds died down. Even better the second time.
Traversed the rige to the base of the north tower. Windy day. Soloed the ridge section.