EPIC route w/ Amy. Roped up for two pitches then soloed the rest. Amazing exposure on the ridge.
Simkin - Aug 22, 2016 11:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2016
Free solo
Here is the Gopro video of the ascent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxYmL_-_tBk
justinjohnsen - May 30, 2013 5:56 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012
To the ridge
With BJ and Patricia. Wet after the weekend precipitation, waiting for sun to melt ice in the first crack slowed us down from the get go. Made the ridge after our turnaround time, enjoyed the view, then started the long slow down scramble and raps.
Vitaliy M. - May 27, 2013 1:29 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2013
Cool!
Cool route with a short approach. Perfect climb for a short day. Only took 4 hours car to car.
seano - Aug 27, 2012 5:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2012
Back for more
Looking for a short, moderate solo, I decided to repeat this route, and once again enjoyed it. Trip report.
Hyadventure - Jun 11, 2012 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
Spicy and Exposed at times
It took me two tries but I got'er done. Lots of harder 3rd and 4th climbing and the ridge line was incredibly exposed at times. Not for the weak at heart..
cliffm - Oct 28, 2011 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
nice
i think we got off route near the top, by staying too far right. we hit a roof/chockstone and we did a short roped traverse to the left, to get back on the slabs. nice climb.
haishan - Jun 20, 2011 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2011
nice solo route
Good waterflow all the way up, made the initial crux moves more interesting. A lot of class 2 on this route, nice finish on a classic knife-edge.
biz - Oct 28, 2010 6:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2010
SE Face
Onsight guided this one. Great fun, but pretty windy up top. The descent was brutal coming down the south slopes. There has to be a better way.
Raining out the main line, due to prior convective activity, so we opted to check out gucci's and wander up the nice face to the right of the right chimney. Great solo! Can't wait to come back in winter
WML - Sep 8, 2009 1:25 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Fun solo!
The first pitch was definitely wet. Took a variation to the right, super fun moves the whole way through and took the Birdman Variation. The middle of the route wasn't terribly interesting, but the start and finish of it more than made up for the break the middle provided. Excellent time!
kevin trieu - Apr 1, 2009 2:46 pm Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2009
Waterfall
Attempted to climb this route in winter of '09. Found a waterfall in the chimney and unconsolidated styrofoam snow in the chute. Never placed pro in a waterfall before. Made it to the Notch but had to bail. Horrible conditions.
salad - Sep 2, 2008 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008
Souteast Face
Wind, snow and rain on the summit ridge.
fossana - Aug 14, 2008 12:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
and again
With Lisa. Recovering from some nasty lingering intestinal bug and needed something short. Fun as always.
Deb - Aug 11, 2008 12:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008
SE Face w/sunburn
Dave and I did this thing with perfect weather eventhough we followed a stinky mule pack the entire trail. Think I smelled shit the whole climb as well. ? Fun ridge, old approach shoes, handsome guy and bullshit descent. Great views of Desolation area.
fossana - May 12, 2008 1:01 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2008
se face encore
Fun solo as always. First alpine climb for Jascha and debut alpine climb during my hiatus from corp life. Chute was a bit wet, but still good friction. Still enough snow to glissade a good portion of the decent.
xiankiefer@gmail.com - Jul 5, 2022 12:06 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2022
Success11:40 car to car. Pitched out a bit too much.
theflyingmountaineer - Oct 2, 2016 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2016
Awesome route, should have soloedEPIC route w/ Amy. Roped up for two pitches then soloed the rest. Amazing exposure on the ridge.
Simkin - Aug 22, 2016 11:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2016
Free soloHere is the Gopro video of the ascent:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AxYmL_-_tBk
justinjohnsen - May 30, 2013 5:56 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012
To the ridgeWith BJ and Patricia. Wet after the weekend precipitation, waiting for sun to melt ice in the first crack slowed us down from the get go. Made the ridge after our turnaround time, enjoyed the view, then started the long slow down scramble and raps.
Vitaliy M. - May 27, 2013 1:29 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2013
Cool!Cool route with a short approach. Perfect climb for a short day. Only took 4 hours car to car.
seano - Aug 27, 2012 5:46 pm Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2012
Back for moreLooking for a short, moderate solo, I decided to repeat this route, and once again enjoyed it. Trip report.
Hyadventure - Jun 11, 2012 5:13 pm Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2012
Spicy and Exposed at timesIt took me two tries but I got'er done. Lots of harder 3rd and 4th climbing and the ridge line was incredibly exposed at times. Not for the weak at heart..
cliffm - Oct 28, 2011 2:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2011
nicei think we got off route near the top, by staying too far right. we hit a roof/chockstone and we did a short roped traverse to the left, to get back on the slabs. nice climb.
haishan - Jun 20, 2011 5:15 pm Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2011
nice solo routeGood waterflow all the way up, made the initial crux moves more interesting. A lot of class 2 on this route, nice finish on a classic knife-edge.
biz - Oct 28, 2010 6:58 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2010
SE FaceOnsight guided this one. Great fun, but pretty windy up top. The descent was brutal coming down the south slopes. There has to be a better way.
A-Lex - Nov 24, 2009 1:07 pm
SE FaceThis climb is so good. I can't believe it's as obscure as it is considering the quality and the fact that everyone who has climbed says great things.
granjero - Sep 10, 2009 7:02 pm
Birdman Buttress VariationRaining out the main line, due to prior convective activity, so we opted to check out gucci's and wander up the nice face to the right of the right chimney. Great solo! Can't wait to come back in winter
WML - Sep 8, 2009 1:25 am Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009
Fun solo!The first pitch was definitely wet. Took a variation to the right, super fun moves the whole way through and took the Birdman Variation. The middle of the route wasn't terribly interesting, but the start and finish of it more than made up for the break the middle provided. Excellent time!
kevin trieu - Apr 1, 2009 2:46 pm Date Climbed: Mar 28, 2009
WaterfallAttempted to climb this route in winter of '09. Found a waterfall in the chimney and unconsolidated styrofoam snow in the chute. Never placed pro in a waterfall before. Made it to the Notch but had to bail. Horrible conditions.
salad - Sep 2, 2008 7:14 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008
Souteast FaceWind, snow and rain on the summit ridge.
fossana - Aug 14, 2008 12:47 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
and againWith Lisa. Recovering from some nasty lingering intestinal bug and needed something short. Fun as always.
Deb - Aug 11, 2008 12:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2008
SE Face w/sunburnDave and I did this thing with perfect weather eventhough we followed a stinky mule pack the entire trail. Think I smelled shit the whole climb as well. ? Fun ridge, old approach shoes, handsome guy and bullshit descent. Great views of Desolation area.
fossana - May 12, 2008 1:01 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 2008
se face encoreFun solo as always. First alpine climb for Jascha and debut alpine climb during my hiatus from corp life. Chute was a bit wet, but still good friction. Still enough snow to glissade a good portion of the decent.
fossana - Jul 5, 2007 1:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2007
se faceLazy morning and a late start, so I had the route to myself. Short approach, excellent granite, and a fun exposed ridge traverse - 5 stars in my book.
Secor's description was fairly easy to follow. Look for the cracks before the trail switches back southish toward the headwall with the waterfall.
gregoryv - Nov 7, 2006 11:15 pm Date Climbed: Nov 5, 2006
Emerson SE FaceVery nice climb. Great exposure on the ridge. A few short pitches of 5.4 or so climbing.