Southeast Ridge

Page Type
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Alpine Rock Climb with glacier approach
Time Required:
One to two days
Grade II, 5.0, 30-degree snow, glacier travel

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Southeast Ridge
Created On: Jul 22, 2002
Last Edited On: Jul 22, 2002


From Interstate 5 in Burlington take WA 20 (North Cascades Highway) towards Sedro Woolley. Drive 47 miles to Marblemount and then get off on the Cascade River Road. Take this for 22 miles to a turnout (elevation 3,200 feet) beneath the impressive Northeast Face of Johannesburg Mountain.

Follow the climbers trail (originally a road to the Diamond Mine .75 miles above) to the vicinity of the mine site and then traverse open slopes. The climber’s trail is wiped out due to a large avalanche slide from Spring 2002. Continue North for approximately a half mile and cross four streams. A switchback trail leads to a moraine at 5,300 feet where multiple campsites and a compost toilet are located. a second camping area is located at 6,400 feet but remains snow covered until later in season.

Ascend the western edge of the Quien Sabe Glacier from Boston Basin to an elevation of 7,500 feet. Ascend a snow gully to the notch in the Southeast Ridge. Depending on conditions of the snow gully moderate fifth class climbing may be necessary to access the gully.

Route Description

From the notch at the base of the ridge traverse along the right or east side of the ridge and then back to the ridge crest at a large ledge. At this point the Southeast Ridge is climbed, or an easier rock gully to the climber’s left, to a notch below the summit. The final pitch follows the right (east) side of the ridge to Sharkfin’s beautiful summit.

The route is descended via rappels and down-climbing. The gully can be down climbed or rappelled on the West side rock buttress of the gulley.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, rope, small rack to 2 1/2 inches

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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Pencil Pusher

Pencil Pusher - Mar 24, 2004 6:02 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

We were puzzled as to where the route began and wound up climbing the left backhand side from the Quien Sabe Glacier. The standard 5.0 route starts at the right hand side notch. We discovered this on rappel. The climb from the left notch (facing Sharkfin from the glacier) entailed going over and down that notch about 30ft, and then traversing climber's left while on Sharkfin. It was a great climb and the rock was pretty good.

Sooo, if you're looking to do the standard route, head up to the notch on the right hand side of Sharkfin. Also, you can avoid the real-suck gulley on the left side of the Quien Sabe, to access Sharkfin. There's a gully just under Sharkfin from the glacier, which requires some scrambling, but is way better than the very loose gulley on the left side.

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Southeast Ridge

1 Images 3 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 1 Additions & Corrections


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