Southwest Chute number 1 Climber's Log

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theflyingmountaineer

theflyingmountaineer - Aug 4, 2014 7:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014

SW Chute #1  Sucess!

Climbed up from camp in Palisade Basin with coworkers. Since it was a work-sponsored trip, we had a guide lead the summit block for us and we toproped the awesome 5.9. I intend to return for the entire traverse and am eager to do the daring lead myself.

iditarod81

iditarod81 - Aug 4, 2014 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2014

SW Chute #1 to Starlight  Sucess!

The 12th CA 14er for me and my husband! Thanks to guides Zach and Trevor for great leading up the SW chute and the famed summit block. Headed out along the ridgeline to summit Starlight afterwards and reached the top of the milk bottle right as the afternoon thunderstorms started rolling in...

Shane Rathbun

Shane Rathbun - Dec 6, 2010 2:50 pm Date Climbed: Nov 14, 2010

Stay right  Sucess!

What AlpineAffinity said.

Stay right when the chute V's off. At the huge chockstone, get on top of it and head right up the 5th class. Once on the 5th class face, trend left/up to find the summit block. At this 5th class, go right here like me or you will find yourself on the backside of the summit block with lots of exposure.

Aaron ended up belaying me up a steep chimney after he reached the summit block me.

skotty

skotty - Nov 11, 2010 6:50 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010

2nd attempt  Sucess!

Second attempt. First time we were sure we hit a dead-end off course at the top. Turns out it was just around the corner.

SKI

SKI - Aug 16, 2010 9:54 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2010

Not that straightforward  Sucess!

Trend right for the most part while going up the chute or you'll be cool like us and end up on the NW ridge way early and have to downclimb back into the chute. Went under a giant chockstone near the summit and used the top of it to step over (right) onto a 5th class ledge/crack system that brought me to the top. Good luck on this fine (NOT) route.

PellucidWombat

PellucidWombat - Jun 22, 2010 10:08 pm Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2009

Twice and I still don't like this route

#1: October 1, 2005 - via Southwest Chute #1. Fresh snow and high winds made us turn back 200' below the summit. I really didn't like the loose grit on the granite slabs midway up the couloir combined with the fall potential there. Not my favorite of slog chutes to climb.

b>#4: September 5-7, 2009 - via N Couloir with Jonathan Bye and Henry Steinberg. Bergschrund was a challenging brittle water ice on alpine ice climb, but a memorable lead. Took longer than expected due to the ice and my friends decided they didn't like the idea of sleeping on the ridge, so we bailed down the SW Chute #1 after finishing the route. Doh!

Blackmouth

Blackmouth - Aug 10, 2009 8:27 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009

SW Chute # 1  Sucess!

Used this to gain the summit block of Thunderbolt on our T-Bolt to Sill Traverse. With a group of 6 the rock fall was surprisingly minimal. We anticipated snow and ice, but were able to get up without the need of ice axe or crampons, even though we brought them.

LuisGijon

LuisGijon - Sep 24, 2008 2:22 am Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008

SW Chute

Nice climb with Willand Fred, in a chilly sunny day. Will led the summit block. Fred and me top roped it.

dubhunter

dubhunter - Sep 22, 2008 6:36 pm Date Climbed: Sep 21, 2008

SW Chute + Summit Block Lead  Sucess!

Climbed with Fred & Luis. Ended up at Lightning Rod, so we had to downclimb then up to the Summit Bock. Lead the 5.9 side of the bock.

myles

myles - Feb 29, 2008 1:46 pm

sw chute  Sucess!

Beautiful weather--free climbed summit

mybackyard

mybackyard - Aug 12, 2007 10:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2007

SW Chute  Sucess!

T-bolt to Sill traverse day hike with forjan & fossana

fossana

fossana - Apr 8, 2007 10:50 pm

SW Chute  Sucess!

Sep ?, 2002
Tbolt-Starlight link-up from Palisade Basin

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