The Southwest Ridge via Goat Lake is the least technically challenging route up Standhope Peak, but it requires more effort that the more commonly utilized Southeast Ridge. Most of this effort is expended climbing up the loose rock from Goat Lake to the saddle between Standhope Peak and Peak 11887’ to the south. The only good reason to choose this Southwest Ridge as opposed to the Southeast ridge is if one plans to climb both Standhope and Peak 11887’ in the same day.
Driving directions to access the trailhead for southern approaches from the Broad Canyon “Recreation Site”
are as follows. From downtown Ketchum Idaho, follow Trail Creek Road through Sun Valley, over Trail Creek Summit, to the signed turnoff for Copper Basin and Wildhorse Canyon. The turnoff is about 22 miles northeast from Ketchum, or about 19 miles southwest from US-93 if coming from Challis or Mackay. Once at the turnoff, go right (east) and follow the road for about 12 miles then turn right again (south) on Copper Basin Loop Road. Continue for another 8 miles to the marked fork for Broad Canyon. Follow this road for another half mile to the trailhead, home to several picnic tables and an outhouse.
There are two trailheads at the Broad Canyon “Recreation Center”. The first one you see is the “Jarvis Trailhead”. This is the start of a well-maintained trail that climbs steadily up to Betty Lake. From Betty Lake, follow a climber’s trail up and over the saddle to the southwest leading to Goat Lake. The second “Broad Canyon Trailhead” is down the road about a quarter mile south from the campground. This trail starts off flat then climbs more steeply when you get closer to the Baptie Lake, just below Goat Lake. Going up one of the trails then down the other is a good option since it’s basically a loop. Both trailhead options require about 5 miles of hiking on good trail to reach Goat Lake.
Once at Goat Lake, head up the trail that switchbacks up the slope to the north towards the Goat/Betty saddle. From the highest switchback prior to the saddle, leave the trail and begin traversing west along the base of Standhope’s southern slopes. The rock here is pretty loose in places with the best option being to stay up higher on the slope to where it is a bit more stable. Continue gradually upwards until you reach the saddle between Standhope and Peak 11887’. Once at the saddle is a fun scramble up the northwest ridge until you reach the summit. The rating is low Class 3. It is roughly 6 miles and 4100’ of elevation gain from the Broad Canyon trailhead to the summit of Standhope Peak.
No technical gear required, just make sure you’re prepared for the scree en-route to the saddle and dress for the weather.