Southwest Ridge/West Chute

Page Type
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Time Required:
Half a day
99% of the route is class 1-2. There is a 150 ft. traverse along the summit ridge that includes a few easy class 3 moves.

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Southwest Ridge/West Chute
Created On: Aug 4, 2003
Last Edited On: Aug 5, 2003


Gradually ascend the slopes above Martha Lake, aiming for a narrow saddle (see photo) at 11,900 ft. that is between Mt. Goddard and Peak 12,410. There is an intermittent use trail up to the saddle. There are several large boulders below and in the saddle. Hike through the saddle and over a snowfield. Once through the saddle, ascend to the right over more boulders, reaching small Lake 11,960 after a few minutes. On the opposite, northeast side of the lake, ascend 300 feet of gentle talus and grass ledges over Goddard Col. Goddard Col is a trivial distance from Lake 12,240. Both Lake 12,240 and Goddard Col are under the south side of Mt. Goddard.

Route Description

From Lake 12,240, take the westernmost chute on the mountain . Early in the season, an ice axe might be needed. The chute is fairly steep with a lot of loose scree. However, the chute isn't really dangerous--just a nuisance. There is a use trail on the left part of the chute, which might be easier to use during the descent because it contains loose dirt and rocks. Upon reaching the top of the chute, head towards the high false summit to the northeast, staying just below and to the right of it. At this point, the south summit will become visible. Climb the South summit. The class 3 portion begins here, along the summit ridge, and is the most interesting part of the climb. Climb from the South Summit to and then over the Middle Summit and proceed towards the highest summit, the North Summit.

Essential Gear

None required.

Miscellaneous Info

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CPSLOKorny - Sep 14, 2004 5:20 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

My partner in climb and I used the West Chute for the ascent and the Southwest Ridge for the descent. The ridge has quite a bit of erosion (each step on the way down was like plunge-stepping in snow) and didn't look fun at all. The west chute is okey to hike up to, though it does get more difficult as you near the actual chute because of the loose talus. Once you get to the chute, use the flacky rock to the west to climb up the chute. It's pretty stable/solid, I would highly recommend it. It's class 3, you can climb high onto the rock or stay just above the chute with stable footings and holds. Check out my pictures of the chute

Matt Worster

Matt Worster - Jun 28, 2005 2:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

I ascended the eastern chute on this ridge, the one with a patch of snow at the center of the picture above. Talus was a little larger and route was more direct. Once high enough, I clung to the Class 3 walls on the east side of that chute to bypass talus and snow.

I plunge-stepped down the use trail on the West Chute on my return.

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Southwest Ridge/West Chute

5 Images 0 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 2 Additions & Corrections


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