From Gayley Camp, traverse the Palisade glacier about a half mile and head east (left) up a chute to Glacier Notch and the saddle between Mt. Gayley and Mt. Sill. See main page for details on the approach. Exercise care climbing loose rock to Glacier Notch.
Start at the base of Mt. Gayley, north of the saddle between Mt. Gayley and Mt. Sill. Scramble up the Class 3 rocks that appear red/orange and a darker band than the rest of the mountain (hence the name, but it’s more like “Follow the Dark Orange Road”), just right of the ridgeline. In the alternative, and to avoid travel across the glacier, find a steep southeast gully on the west face that will join the southwest ridge. This is a short and straightforward climb and most get to the summit and back in under two hours from Glacier Notch.
Bob Burd adds the following "spice" to the route: The ridge itself can be followed directly with some very enjoyable class 4, easy 5 in places. The granite is solid and the large blocks provide ample fun with chimneys, mantles, and stemming, even a little tunnelling.
Ice axe and crampons recommended for the approach.
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