From Punta Helbronner (3470 m) reach Col des Flambeaux (3407 m). From there, leave Aiguille de Toula
on your left and aim for the col between Aiguille d'Entrèves and Tour Ronde
(Col d'Entrèves). Reach the crest of the ridge either at the col or further left with easy scramble. The approach does not normally present technical difficulties, but the glacier is crevassed
and roped travel is highly recommended. The part of the itinerary that from Col des Flambeaux almost reaches Col d'Entrèves can be seen quite clearly in this picture
From Col d'Entrèves follow the ridge
to the summit. The higher difficulties are encountered towards the end. One has to first descend a steep chimney, and then negotiate a steep slab (one pass of UIAA IV). Aiguille d'Entrèves has twin summits. The southern summit seems a tad higher. After an airy but uncomplicated traverse to the northern summit
, complete the traverse of the spire by scrambling down the northeast ridge. The rocky ridge continues with a pronounced rib
of the snow slopes. Descend this rib for a while; then, angling left reconnect with the traces leading to Col d'Entrèves. (The shortest route is blocked by seracs
.) Turn right and retrace your steps to Punta Helbronner or Rifugio Torino.
Ice axe, crampons, helmet. A light rock rack--most pro is in place and rock horns abound.
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