Southwest Ridge

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 45.84560°N / 6.91690°E
Route Type: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing
Time Required: Half a day
Difficulty: UIAA IV


From Punta Helbronner (3470 m) reach Col des Flambeaux (3407 m). From there, leave Aiguille de Toula on your left and aim for the col between Aiguille d'Entrèves and Tour Ronde (Col d'Entrèves). Reach the crest of the ridge either at the col or further left with easy scramble. The approach does not normally present technical difficulties, but the glacier is crevassed and roped travel is highly recommended. The part of the itinerary that from Col des Flambeaux almost reaches Col d'Entrèves can be seen quite clearly in this picture.

Route Description

From Col d'Entrèves follow the ridge to the summit. The higher difficulties are encountered towards the end. One has to first descend a steep chimney, and then negotiate a steep slab (one pass of UIAA IV). Aiguille d'Entrèves has twin summits. The southern summit seems a tad higher. After an airy but uncomplicated traverse to the northern summit, complete the traverse of the spire by scrambling down the northeast ridge. The rocky ridge continues with a pronounced rib of the snow slopes. Descend this rib for a while; then, angling left reconnect with the traces leading to Col d'Entrèves. (The shortest route is blocked by seracs.) Turn right and retrace your steps to Punta Helbronner or Rifugio Torino.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, helmet. A light rock rack--most pro is in place and rock horns abound.

Miscellaneous Info

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