Southwest Route

Page Type
Washington, United States, North America
Route Type:
Hiking, Mountaineering, Scrambling, Skiing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Most of a day
Rock Difficulty:
Class 3

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
Southwest Route
Created On: Oct 16, 2007
Last Edited On: Oct 16, 2007


This pleasant scramble offers a trip to an outstanding high ridge and summit in the heart of the North Cascades. Views of the Cascade crest peaks, three volcanoes, and the Olympics accentuate the lofty position of the alpine portion of this route. Solid scrambling at third class at its hardest, a small glacier to cross, and expansive alpine meadows make for undemanding travel. This peak, and associated ridgeline, are excellent peak-bagging terrain.

Getting There

Follow directions on the main page to the trail to Monogram Lake. At roughly 5400 feet and 4.8 miles from the road the Easterly trail crosses a ridgeline and begins to drop to Monogram Lake. Leaving the trail anwhere near here allows easy cross-country travel on talus, rocky slopes, and open meadows to the crest of Teebone Ridge.

Route Description

Following the ridgeline Northeast from above Monogram Lake leads to Point 6844, about a mile South-Southwest from the summit of Little Devil. From near the summit of Point 6844 one can either continue to traverse the ridgeline in a rocky arc around the Northwestern edge of the Monogram Glacier, or drop directly to the flat, lightly crevassed glacier and cross it Northward to the base of the summit block of Little Devil. Either way, second and third class scrambling lead to the top from the edge of the glacier near the ridge crest southwest of the summit.

This route involves some 14 miles and 5500 feet of elevation gain roundtrip.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons in late Summer and early Fall.