Southwest Slope

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 48.49500°N / 120.997°W
Additional Information Route Type: Snowfield climb
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 3
Sign the Climber's Log


Start from the Cascade Pass trailhead. Hike to Cascade Pass and up Sahale Arm to campsites at 7200 feet on the Sahale Glacier (permit required).

Route Description

From camp go slightly north and drop east down the Sahale Glacier to a rock rib of Sahale Peak. Descend about 600 feet on steep terrain and gain a minor notch left of a small pinnacle. Drop down a steep snow finger here into Horseshoe Basin at about 6400 feet. Make a gradually steepening traverse around the basin to Davenport Mine and bear to the south side of Buckner's west ridge (Ripsaw Ridge) to the SW peak. Short rock scramble to the summit from the saddle at the top of the snowfield. Descend the same way and be mindful you will now be ascending steep snow at the end of the traverse.

Essential Gear

Ice axe, crampons, rope, wands, altimeter

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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Klenke - Sep 18, 2004 2:50 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

The route down from Sahale Arm to Horseshoe Basin has been described unfavorably by some. I have been down that way in both snowy conditions (merely a steep snow descent) and bare conditions (mostly slabs).

Don't let others' wimpiness scare you away. The descent is not hard. In snow conditions you'll need to have ice axe skills (know how to self arrest in case you slip) as the descent (and return ascent later) is on ~30 degree snow. In late-season bare conditions the descent is over bare slabby rock, then talus, then down a hidden ramp.

For a more detailed description of the route (which I recommend you read), see the Approach 1: Sahale Arm section on the Horseshoe Peak page.

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