Spalti di Toro - Monfalconi

IDENTI-PEAK

from W

from SE

Geography

This group is situated in the north-east of Italy, between the two regioni Veneto and Friuli Venezia Giulia and among the provinces of Udine, Pordenone and Belluno, in the area known as Carnic Pre-Alps.
It’s an 11 km indented ridge ( direction: south west towards north east ) composed by two main groups ( Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi ) that can be divided in six subgroups ( Ramo di Vedòrcia, Ramo del Castellato, Ramo di Toro and Monfalconi di Montanaìa, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Forni ).
The borders are: Forcella Val Misera,Val Anfela, lake of Centro Cadore, Val Talagona, Valle Pra di Toro, Forcella Scodovacca, Val Giàf, Passo Lavinal, Val Binon, Val Meluzzo, Val Cimoliana, Val de Santa Maria, Val Misera.
The average elevation of the main summits is between 2000 and 2500 meters. The highest mountain is the Monfalcòn di Montanàia ( 2548 m ).

Geology

This can be considered the most “dolomitic” area of the Alps even if, as we know, it’s not inside the group of the Dolomiti.
The geological structure of the mountains of this group is very simple: they are almost all completely made of the finest dolomite rock, called Dolomia Principale. It’s a sedimentary carbonatic rock formed in the Norian period of the Triassic age ( 220-200 million years ), in the warm waters of the Tethis sea, that would cover a broad area of the African and the Euro-Asiatic continents. In the Paleogene age ( 65-35 million years ) the two European and African plaques collided and the Alps started to rise. In this period terrible earthquakes and climatic changes modified the original structure of the rock fashioning the mountains giving to them picturesque shapes . Then in the Neogene age ( 25-5 million years ) the dolomitic mountains emerged from the sea and a new phase of erosion started . During the long glaciations of the Pleistocene period ( 2-0.01 million years ) this peaks took the shape that we can admire today ( but the dolomitic mountains are constantly changing… ).

million years	age	period	what happened
0,01	IV	Holocene	erosion
2	IV	Pleistocene	disintegration and erosion – last glaciations
24	III - Neogene	Miocene	emersion from the sea
50	III – Paleogene	Eocene	alpine corrugation
65	III - Paleogene	Paleocene	collision Euro-Asiatic and African plaques
220-200	II - Triassic	Norian	second phase of the dolomitic formation

Alpinistic history

150 years ago, when the first pioneers arrived to study this group, this area was one of the most remote and wild of the Alps. Nobody would know much about it and there were legends and scary stories about that sharp towers of rock that would light up at sunset above the eastern side of the valley of the river Piave.
The first were the botanists and geologists J. Gilbert and G.C. Churchill ( pioneers of the Dolomites and authors of the famous book “The Dolomite Mountains” ) and then F.F. Tuckett ( first on Monte Civetta ), that approached the group from west and went up at the feet of the mountains of Vedòrcia. Then other scientists and alpinists like J. Ball, J. Kugy ( who climbed the nearby Crìdola ), G. Marinelli went to see the group and wrote words of great admiration and amazement for that spectacular peaks and towers.

But only in the last years of the nineteenth century a real alpinistic exploration started. The first mountain climbed was the highest one, the Monfalcòn di Montanàia, by Arturo Ferrucci and a local guide in 1891. Four years later another mountaineer from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia, C. Mantica, climbed other two summits: Cima d’Arade and an unnamed peak that was named after him ( Punta Mantica ).
Then in the first years of the twentieth century many alpinists came to reveal the secrets of that magnificent dolomitic “garden”. The most prestigious peak to conquer was of course the Campanile di Val Montanàia, the amazing hidden jewel of the group. Napoleone Cozzi ( with A.Zanutti ) was the first who tried the difficult ascent on the south face, but had to stop under a roof just before the “gallery”, not knowing that he had already climbed the most difficult passage of the route ( today known as “Cozzi crack” ).
A few days later V. von Glanvell and K.G. von Saar found an easier passage after the crack and reached the summit of the campanile. The two austrian alpinists succeeded because they were great alpinists but also because they followed the indications of Cozzi, and the story of how they got that information is one of the strangest in the history of the alpinism ( what is sure is that they were in a bar drinking good wine…). here is the story described by Melania Lunazzi ( in Italian ).

The more active mountaineers that climbed for the first time the most important summits of the group were: J. Both and F. Koegel, V. von Glanvell, K.G. von Saar, K. Domenìgg, F. Konig, K. Berger and J. Hechenbleikner, G.B. Piaz and B. Treier,G. De Gasperi, G.B. De Santa and G. Feruglio.

Between the two world wars, the best rock climbers of those years came to open more and more difficult routes on this mountains: P. Fanton, A. Tissi, A. Berti, C. Gilberti,R. Carlesso, E. Solleder,G. Gervasutti, E. Castiglioni,S. Casara… Among the exploits of this fantastic mountaineers one was object of an harsh controversy that lasted for more than fifty years. The overhanging yellow-black north face of Campanile di Val Montanàia was considered impossible to climb by all the alpinists of that era and the first attempt by the Fanton brothers in 1913 was unsuccessful. In 1925 the climber from Vicenza Severino Casara announced that he had climbed that repulsive face in perfect free-solo climb, through the famous “spigolo a sega” ( the saw edge).
Some Italian alpinists had doubts about his climb, because looking at that wall it was clear that the difficulty was above the sixth degree ( today is rated VII- UIAA ), and nobody before had climbed routes of that kind. But for a while nobody contested the climb. Five years later another famous italian mountaineer, Attilio Tissi, led an attempt to repeat that route but he couldn’t follow it and had to open an easier variation using nails and artificial helps. After the climb he affirmed firmly that was impossible that Casara could have climbed that route. Many years after two different alpinists, Mazzorana and Dalla Porta Xidias, climbing two separate sections of the route, proved that the climb was possible ( of course with modern gear and roped ), but only Casara knew the truth, and he brought it in his tomb.

In the 50’s a german engineer, W. Herberg, spent many years in the area studying this mountains and, with his climbing partner from Milano V. Altamura, virtually closed the explorative era . Herberg was a very modest man and didn’t want to give his name to one of the unnamed summits that he climbed (he probably named one of them after his daughter Veronica ). Just a few years ago was decided to change the name of Croda di Mezzo ( Crìdola group ) in Cima Herberg.

In more recent years some very difficult routes have been opened in the group and the most famous are the extreme ones of the writer, carver and alpinist Mauro Corona on the overhanging walls of the Campanile di Val Montanàia ( he climbed it almost two hundred times! ). Mauro lives and works in the nearby village of Erto and is a fantastic rock-climber, great passionate of this mountains that he knows better than anyone else.

SPALTI DI TORO

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Il Castello di Vedòrcia

Ramo di Vedòrcia

from Monfalcon di Forni

From Monte Vedòrcia

Ramo di Vedòrcia map

Cime Cadìn

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Cima Cadìn degli Elmi	2424 m	From SW ( Forcella di Santa Maria )– difficulty around UIAA I	unknown local hunters	46.387/12.451
Cima Cadìn di Vedòrcia	2403 m	From SW ( Forcella degli Elmi )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 6/19/1903	46.390/12.453
Cima Cadìn di Toro	2386 m	From NW ( Forcella Cadin di Toro )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	unknown cartographers	46.389/12.459

Il Castello di Vedòrcia

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Torre di Vedòrcia	2315 m	From S ( Forcella Torre di Vedòrcia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/20/1907	46.396/12.461
Torre Sud di Vedòrcia	unknown	From S ( Forcella Sud di Vedòrcia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/20/1907	46.396/12.461
Torre Nord Est di Vedòrcia	unknown	From N ( Forcella Nord )– difficulty around UIAA IV	K.G. von Saar-F. Konig, 8/3/1903	46.396/12.461
Campanile Olga	2270 m	From S ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA IV	G.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 7/24/1906	46.396/12.461
Campanile Domegge	unknown	From NE ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	G.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/1906	46.396/12.461
Collalto	2039 m	From N ( Val Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA I	G.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/1906	46.398/12.470
Torre di Collalto	2067 m	From NE ( Forcella di Mezzo )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	G.B. Piaz – B. Trier, 8/1906	46.398/12.470

Cima Spe

Minor summits

mountain	elevation	routes
Cima Spe	2314 m	From NE ( Forcella Spe )– difficulty around UIAA I/II
Costa Vedòrcia	2042 m	From N ( Rifugio Tita Barba ) – easy hike
Monte Vedòrcia	1852 m	From S ( Rifugio Tita Barba ) – easy hike
Cresta di Santa Maria	2238 m	From NE ( Forcella di Santa Maria ) – difficulty around I/II

Ramo del Castellato

Cima Talagona

From Val Ciòl dal Mònt

Ramo del Castellato map

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Cresta Piana	2340 m	From SE ( From Cima Talagona - Forcella della neve )– difficulty around UIAA II	J. Both, 8/23/1902	46.390/12.458
Cima Talagona	2429 m	From SE ( Forcella Stretta )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	J. Both-F. Koegel, 8/23/1902	46.489/12.461
Cima di San Lorenzo	2363 m	From SW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA I	K. Domènigg-K.G. von Saar, 8/2/1903	46.388/12.464
Torre di San Lorenzo	2385 m	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/1902	46.389/12.465
Castellato	2424 m	From NW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/22/1903	46.390/12.467

Ramo di Toro

winter

Pala Grande

Ramo di Toro map

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Campanile Toro	2345 m	From SW ( Forcella Le Corde)– difficulty around UIAA II/III	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner 7/22/1903	46.391/12.469
Pala grande	2385 m	From SW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA II	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 8/22/1903	46.394/12.471
Guglia Jacek	unknown	From SW ( Forcella Scura )– difficulty around UIAA IV	A. Gozzi-J. Gierlinski-F. Lenarduzzi-R. Bassi, 8/01/1974	46.393/12.470
Punta Pia	2347 m	From NE ( Forcella Pia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G.B. Piaz-B. Treier, 7/25/1906	46.395/12.473
Cima Toro	2355 m	From E ( Val Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G. Morassutti-A. Giordani and P. Hubel-O. Uhland-A. Eichinger, 8/29/1902	46.396/12.474
Punta Elia	2251 m	NW buttress( Forcella Segnata )– difficulty around UIAA V	A. Gracis-L. Coletti, 10/26/1969	46.397/12.474
Cima Rosina	2369 m	From E ( Val Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. Lorenzi-G. Faggian-O. Apollonio, 7/15/1962	46.396/12.478
Cima Emilia	2424 m	From NE ( Forcella del Campanile )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	J. Both-F. Koegel, 8/21/1922	46.401/12.477
Cima Both	2437 m	From NE ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	J. Both-F. Koegel, 8/29/1902	46.403/12.477
Punta Cattaneo	2242 m	From S ( Forcella della Finestra )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	L. Tarra-A. Cattaneo, 9/16/1910	46.408/12.477
Punta Cornelia	2230 m	From E ( Forcella della Finestra )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	W. and P. Herberg, 7/28/1957	46.406/12.476
Punta 2097	2097 m	From NW ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA I	Schwarz-Seydel-Stummek-Knopf, 8/20/1903	46.406/12.480

CAMPANILE DI VAL MONTANAIA

“E’ il Campanile più bello del Mondo” ( “ Is the most beautiful spire of the world” )
Severino Casara

From North	From South

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Campanile di Val Montanàia	2173 m	South face – difficulty UIAA III/IV and V-	V. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 9/17/1902 – First female ascent: Mary von Glanvell and Titty Angerer, 10/21/1903 – First winter ascent: O. Soravito-A. Di Prampero, 02/1932 ( normal route ) - S. Dalla Porta Xidias-E. Rocco, 02/23/1944 ( north face )	46.387/12.451

From East

Famous routes

face	difficulty	opened by	year
south	V+	P. Beltrame-P. Ivo	1984
south	VIII-	M. Corona-G. Bottino-A. Moret-E. Bravin	1994
east	VII	P. Cetin-S. Dalla Porta Xidias	1955
east	VI+	R. Carlesso-M. De Zanna	1961
east	VIII-	M. Corona-A. Gogna	1992
north	VI-	P. Toso-G. Faggian	1959
north	VII-	S. Casara	1925
west	VII-	M. Corona-G. Giordani-C. Carratù	1990
west	VII+	D. Ulian-C. Scaramuzza	1969

Dialogo con il Campanile di Mauro Corona ( in italian )

MONFALCONI

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Monfalcòn di Forni

Monfalconi di Montanàia

Monfalcòn di Montanàia

From Torrione Comici

Monfalconi di Montanàia map

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Cima di Forcella Montanàia	2520 m	From SW ( Forcella Montanàia )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	P. Hubel-O. Uhland-K. Volkmar, 7/29/1902	46.404/12.484
Monfalcòn di Montanàia	2548 m	From E ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	A. Ferrucci-F. Luzzatto, 8/04/1891	46.404/12.486
Campanile Stabile	unknown	From E ( Alta Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA IV	G. Bianchini-O. Soravito, 8/12/1953	46.402/12.486
Torre di Forcella Cimoliana	unknown	SE face ( Forcella Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA III	G. Bianchini-O. Soravito, 8/12/1953	46.401/12.484
Cima Eva	2291 m	From N ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II	G. Bianchini-M. Micoli, 4/18/1954	46.403/12.491
Bòcia di Cimoliana	unknown	S face ( Alta Val Monfalcon di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA III+	E. de Toni-G. Bianchini-E. Villaggio, 4/20/1957	46.403/12.488
Punta Mantica	2500 m	E face ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	C. Mantica-A. de Bortoli, 1895	46.406/12.487
Cima d’Arade	2503 m	From SE ( Cadin di cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	C. Mantica-A. de Bortoli, 9/13/1895	46.408/12.488
Croda Cimoliana	2408 m	From N ( Forcella Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA III	V. von Glanvell-K. Domènigg-K.G. von Saar, 8/18/1902	46.398/12.484
Cima Montanàia	2268 m	From S ( Forcella Meluzzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	V. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 8/23/1902	46.395/12.484
Cima Meluzzo	2188 m	From N ( Forcella Meluzzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	V. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar, 8/23/1902	46.393/12.483

Monfalconi di Cimoliana

”I Leoncini”

Monfalcòn di Cimoliana

Monfalconi di Cimoliana map

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Punta Koegel	2440 m	From S ( Cadin di Cimoliana )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	F. Koegel-J. Both, 8/02/1902	46.410/12.493
Monfalcòn di Cimoliana	2450 m	From S ( Forcella del Leone )– difficulty around UIAA III	F. Koegel-J. Both, 8/24/1902	46.413/12.497
Cresta del Leone	2401 m	From NE ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio, 7/05/1904	46.408/12.500
Torre Vincenzo	unknown	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/1902	46.408/12.501
Croda Ultima del Leone	2401 m	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio, 7/15/1904	46.407/12.502
Cima Stalla	2100 m	E face ( Forcella Stalla )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	K. Domènigg-F. Konig-K.G. von Saar-V. von Glanvell, 8/17/1903	46.395/12.495
Cima Bianca	2175 m	From NW ( Forcella Bianca )– difficulty around UIAA I	G.De Gasperi-G.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio, 9/20/1902	46.405/12.506

Monfalconi di Forni

Scala Piccola

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude
La Forchetta	2216 m	From NW ( Val Pra di Toro )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/15/1907	46.418/12.484
Cima Anna Paolina	2330 m	From W ( Forcella Anna Paolina )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/15/1907	46.418/12.488

Scala Grande

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude
Antecima della Scala	2200 m	From E – difficulty around UIAA I	unknown	46.415/12.485
Torre del Rifugio	2250 m	From E ( Forcella della Scala )– difficulty around UIAA IV	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/1907	46.415/12.486
Torre del Verone	2300 m	From W ( Forcella della Scala )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/1907	46.416/12.487
Torre di Mezzo	2360 m	From W ( Forcella del Verone )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/1907	46.416/12.488
Torre del Coltello	2390 m	From S ( Val d’Arade )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	W. Herberg-V. Altamura, 8/2/1953	46.417/12.490
Cima della Scala	2390 m	From W ( Forcella del Coltello )– difficulty around UIAA II	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/1907	46.417/12.491
Torre Scodovacca	2440 m	From W ( Forcella Bloccata )– difficulty around UIAA IV	K. Domènigg-F. Konig-K.G. von Saar, 8/26/1906	46.418/12.492
Torre Bianca	2470 m	From W ( Forcella Bianca )– difficulty around UIAA IV	O. Bleier-F. Schroffenegger, 9/17/1907	46.418/12.493

Maddalena group

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Cima Maddalena	2410 m	From SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II	U. Fanton, 8/14/1910	46.420/12.490
Torre Valentino	2300 m	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G.B. De Santa-G. Feruglio-S. Petz, 9/20/1902	46.421/12.494
Coston di Forca Alta	2290 m	From SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	I. and U. Coradazzi Bianchi, 9/3/1948	46.419/12.494
Cima Bianchi	2270 m	From SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	A. Hennig-T. Hillinger-V. Raitmayr-H. Reingruber,7/11/1927	46.420/12.495
Cima Chiesa	2240 m	From SW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	A. Hennig-T. Hillinger-V. Raitmayr-H. Reingruber,7/11/1927	46.420/12.496
Torre Antonio Berti	2155 m	From N ( Forcella Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA III	U. Fanton-A. Andreoletti, 8/19/1911	46.421/12.497

Giàf group

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Cima Giàf	2523 m	From NW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L.Patera, 8/12/1900	46.418/12.492
Crodòn di Giàf	2504 m	From NW ( Forca Alta di Scodovacca )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. D’Agostini-G.B. De Santa, 9/27/1901	46.418/12.494
”Il Sigaro”	2450 m	From SW ( Forcella Sigaro )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	K. Domènigg-V.W. von Glanvell-F. Konig-K.G. von saar-T. Angerer, 8/6/1902	46.417/12.494
Monfalcòn di Forni	2453 m	From SW ( Forcella Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II	H. Steinitzer-R. Reschreiter, 8/2/1900	46.417/12.497

Ramo del Torrione-Urtisiel

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
”Il Torrione”	2335 m	From S ( Forcella del Torrione )– difficulty around UIAA II	G. Antoniacomi-I. Coradazzi Bianchi-E. Pavoni-A. Perissutti, 7/20/1929	46.415/12.500
Cima Barbe	2303 m	From S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	G. Antoniacomi-A. Perissutti, 1930	46.413/12.512
Cima Biasutti	2280 m	From S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. Patera, 1900	46.412/12.513
Cima Portòn di Monfalcòn	2342 m	From S ( Val Monfalcon di Forni )– difficulty around UIAA II	L. Patèra, 8/13/1900	46.411/12.515
Cima dei Pecoli	2352 m	From E ( Forcella dei Pecoli )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	G. De Gasperi-G. Feruglio	46.411/12.516
Cima Urtisièl Ovest	2264m	From SE ( Valmenòn )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	V.W. von Glanvell-K.G. von Saar-K. Domènigg-F. Konig-T. Angerer, 8/14/1903	46.410/12.523
Cima Urtisièl Est	2119 m	From W ( Forcella Urtisiel )– difficulty around UIAA I	unknown cartographers, 1888	46.413/12.531

Minor summits

mountain	routes	image
Torre Alfonso	N-NE face – difficulty V
Campanile Claudia	North face – difficulty UIAA VII-
Torre Gilberti	unknown
Torre di Forni	via “Rai dai Tavaius” ( north face ) – difficulty UIAA VI
Torre Francesco	North face – difficulty
Torre Bassa	From NE – difficulty around UIAA III/IV
Cime del Lavinàl 2040 and 2063	From Casera Val Binòn ( S ) – easy hikes

Hiking around the group

If almost all the summits of this group are quite difficult to climb, this doesn’t mean that hikers can’t enjoy the wild beauty of this fantastic cathedrals of rock. There are very nice paths through picturesque spires and notches that can really take your breath away. Here is a short list of the most interesting ones:

description	marked path n°	hours	views to
From Rifugio Pordenone to the basin of Campanile di Val Montanàia	353	2	Brica group,Torri Postegàe, Spalti di Toro, Campanile di Val Montanàia and Monfalconi di Montanàia
From Rifugio Padova to the basin of campanile di Val Montanàia ( through Forcella Segnata )	357	3	the whole western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, the Dolomiti Orientali, Campanile di Val Montanàia and Monfalconi di Montanàia
From Rifugio Padova to the basin of campanile di Val Montanàia ( through Forcella Montanàia )	346-342-353	3.30	the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia and Campanile di Val Montanàia
From Rifugio Giàf to Rifugio Padova ( through Forcella Scodovacca )	346	3.30	all the groups of Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Crìdola and Spalti di Toro
From Rifugio Giàf to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella del Cason )	342	2	Crìdola, Monfalconi di Forni, Monfalconi di Cimoliana and Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Pordenone to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella del Leone )	349	3	Pramaggiore group, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia and Monfalconi di Forni
From Rifugio Padova to Bivacco Marchi Granzotto ( through Forcella Monfalcòn di Forni )	346-342	3	the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro, Monfalconi di Cimoliana, Monfalconi di Montanàia , Monfalconi di Forni and Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Padova to Rifugio Pordenone ( through Forcella Segnata )	357-353	4.30	the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi, Dolomiti Orientali, Campanile di Val Montanàia, Pramaggiore group
From Rifugio Padova to Rifugio Tita Barba	352	2.30	the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi
From Rifugio Tita Barba to Bivacco Gervasutti ( through Forcella Spe )	350	3	the western branch of Crìdola, Spalti di Toro and Monfalconi, Cima dei Preti group, Pramaggiore group

Huts and Bivouacs

Huts

mountain hut	valley	elevation	how to get there	owned by	Tel. number
Rifugio Giàf	Val Giàf	1405 m	2 kms by car from Chiarandenis village- Forni di Sopra and then a 30 minutes hike to the hut ( path. N°346 )	Comune di Forni di Sopra	0433.88002 - e-mail: rifugio.giaf@libero.it
Rifugio Padova	Val Pra di Toro	1300 m	From Domegge di Cadore 7 kms by car through Val Talagona or 3 hrs by foot	Comune di Domegge di Cadore	0435.72488
Rifugio Tita Barba	Malga Vedòrcia	1821 m	2 hrs ( path n° 350 ) from Domegge di Cadore (loc. La Faghera )	private	0435.32902
Rifugio Pordenone	Val Meluzzo	1249 m	from Cimolais 13 km by car through Val Cimoliana	CAI Pordenone	0427.87300

Bivouacs

name	elevation	place
Bivacco Marchi Granzotto	2152	Val Monfalcon di Forni
Bivacco Perugini	2060	Cadin di Val Montanàia
Bivacco Gervasutti	1940	eastern slopes of Cresta de Santa Maria

Getting there

1) Rifugio Padova ( 7 km by car from Domegge di Cadore/south east side of the lake ) - Rifugio Tita Barba ( marked path 350 from La Faghera, reachable by car from Sottocastello-Chalet Miralago )
2) Rifugio Giàf ( From Forni di sopra-Chiarandenis village 2km by car and then a short hike of 20/30 min to the hut. Marked path 346 )
3) Rifugio Pordenone ( 13 km by car from Cimolais )




From east:
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit CARNIA and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)

Or
From the UDINE-TARVISIO motorway exit Gemona and the S.daniele, Maniago, Barcis, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From west:
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From the BRENNERO motorway exit BRESSANONE/BRIXEN and then Dobbiaco, Cortina d'Ampezzo,Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From south:
From Venezia to Belluno , Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From Venezia to Belluno and then Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

From north:
From Passo di Monte Croce Carnico to Tolmezzo. Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra (2), Passo della Màuria , Lorenzago and Domegge di Cadore (1)
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Pieve di Cadore, Domegge di Cadore (1), Lorenzago , Passo della Màuria and Forni di Sopra (2)

Or
From S.Candido to Passo di Monte Croce Comelico, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Longarone, Cimolais, Rifugio Pordenone (3)

When to climb?

The best season is from may-june to September-october. Winter ascents are possible but difficult with very long approaches ( the roads to the huts are usually iced and very dangerous in the winter season ).


Meteo

Veneto weather forecast
Friuli weather forecast
Eastern Alps weather forecast
webcam Forni di Sopra

Red Tape

The eastern part of this group is inside the Parco delle Dolomiti Friulane . There are no fees to pay or particular restrictions ( camping is not allowed ), but remember that here we like to keep the nature intact so don't trow away anything and respect plants and wild animals.

Accomodation

You can easily find accommodation in the villages at the three corners of the group ( Cimolais, Forni di Sopra, Domegge and Pieve di Cadore ).
Forni di Sopra Hotels
Camping Forni di Sopra
Camping Domegge
Cimolais hotels
Pieve di cadore hotels
Domegge di cadore hotels

Maps and books

Tabacco 1:25000

1) 021 Dolomiti di Sinistra Piave
2)002 Forni di Sopra-Forni di Sotto-Ampezzo-Sauris
3)016 Dolomiti del Centro Cadore
4) Parco naturale delle Dolomiti friulane


A. and C. Berti - Dolomiti Orientali vol. II - C.A.I. - T.C.I.
G.Buscaini – Le Dolomiti Orientali - Zanichelli
J.Gilbert – G.C. Churchill - Montagne Dolomitiche – Nuovi sentieri editore
S. Fradeloni - Dolomiti di sinistra Piave e Prealpi Carniche - Edizioni Dolomiti
I. Zandonella - 50 escursioni in Val del Piave - Edizioni Tamari
L. Visentini - Dolomiti d'Oltre Piave - Escursionismo e vie normali sulle cime dei gruppi del Cridola, Spalti di Toro e Monfalconi - Athesia Editrice
K. Von Saar and K. Dominigg - Alla scoperta delle Prealpi Carniche - C.A.I.
S.Dalla Porta Xidias - Addio al Campanile – Luca Visentini Editore
Fondazione Berti - Antonio Berti cantore delle Crode – Nuovi sentieri editore
S.Dalla Porta Xidias - Montanaia.Cento anni di storia e di segreti – Nuovi sentieri editore
Danilo Pianetti - L’avventura dolomitica di Victor Wolf von Glanvell – Edizioni Ghedina Cortina
C. Ferri - Alpi Carniche e Dolomiti Friulane - Itinerari alpinistici dell'ottocento - " Le guide " - Editrice Goriziana
M. Lunazzi - Le Dolomiti Friulane negli acquarelli di Napoleone Cozzi - Nuovi Sentieri Editore
M. Lunazzi - Ardimenti e incantevoli ozi - Nuovi Sentieri Editore
A.Gogna-M.Milano-F.Raiser - I grandi spazi delle Alpi - Vol.8 – Priuli e Verducca Editori
R.Pedrotti - Dolomiti Orientali - Manfrini
I.Zandonella Callegher - Dolomiti del Piave - Athesia
F.Hauleitner -Dolomiti sconosciute - Athesia

Images

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