Spigolo Faccio - Primo Apostolo

Overview

Spigolo Faccio or Spigolo dell'Apostolo

Primo Apostolo 1738 m is the first tower in a group of three ones, located in the Sengio Alto, Piccole Dolomiti Group. It's not an important peak, but its shape is attractive and slender. Moreover along its East ridge we can find one of the most classic climb of the Piccole Dolomiti, an aesthetic and smart good route on excellent rock.

Getting There

The starting point to climb is Passo di Campogrosso 1460 m, a mountain col that connects the Agno Valley (province of Vicenza) and the Vallarsa (Trento). The pass is accessible by car only from the Vicenza province, from Recoaro Terme.

Road access to Campogrosso

- From the SW side (Vicenza province): follow A4 Motorway, exit Montecchio Maggiore and take the road to Valdagno, Recoaro and Passo di Campogrosso (47 km. from Montecchio Maggiore); some hundred meters before getting to Campogrosso Pass follow the Strada del Re (King’s Road) on the right and park the car near the bar closing the road.

- From the NE side (Trento province): follow A22 Autobrennero Motoway, exit Rovereto and take the SS46 rising along the Vallarsa and reaching Pian delle Fugazze m. 1162 (km. 27 from Rovereto). From the pass keep the King’s Road (Strada del Re, an old road suitable for vehicles only for some kilometers) leading to Malga Cornetto. Park here.

Access to Primo Apostolo from Passo di Campogrosso m. 2239

From the refuge follow the road towards the ossuary of Pasubio and Pian delle Fugazze (right going up), after a few meters the road is barred. Park the car and continue on foot. In about 15 minutes you arrive at the base of the Baffelan wall. Reach this latter, then head to right towards a retaining wall at the base of the Boale Baffelan; the route starts 3 meters to the right of the wall along the obvious ridge (20 minutes from Campogrosso).

Route Description

Primo Apostolo Spigolo Faccio aka Spigolo dell'Apostolo - report

Difficulty: a couple of moves grading V and V - (UIAA), the remaining from III to IV+ (UIAA) Equipment: all belays are equipped with fix, the pitches are is equipped with pegs, moreover there are several natural protections in place
Length: 170 m.
Pitches: 5
Exposure: E

A fun and pleasant classic climb up a ridge with excellent rock.

 Starting - The route starts just right of the retaining wall

L1 - Climb the little wall overcoming a short move grading V-, then climb directly to a grey slab and avoids it to the left, reaching a short chimney. Climb the chimney and belay in a yellow niche. V-, then IV+ and IV, 40 m

L2 - From the niche go to left to another chimney, enter the chimney (a short move grading IV), then III. Climb to the small terrace right, tehn follow the easy slab and reach a small terrace on the edge. 35 m

L3 - Along easy slabs to the niche beneath the "nose" III+, 45 m

L4 - Bypass the nose to the right, then climb a crack (slightly overhanging) reaching the belay. V, IV+, 15 m

L5 - Ignore the peg on the right and climb slightly to the left to a ledge. Again a few meters to the left, then climb a ramp with steps to the summit. III+, IV, 35 m

Descent - from the top climb over the first prominence, cross a slab and then follow the ridge with little dwarf pines westwards to the Arroccamento path. Once reached the Arroccamento path, follow it to the left, go through two tunnels then and go down in the Boale Baffelan until the retaining wall (chain on the right) and then to the base of the wall.

Essential Gear

Normal climbing equipment (2 ropes 50 meters, helmet, slings, quickdraws)

Where to stay

- Rifugio Toni Giuriolo - Passo di Campogrosso 1456 m

- Rifugio Alla Guardia

Red Tape

No fees no permits required. Pay attention about the fact that you're not allowed to drive on the road located on the North side joining Pian delle Fugazze to Passo di Campogrosso.

When to climb

The best period goes from late Spring to early Fall

Meteo

- Dolomiti Meteo
- Meteotrentino

Guidebooks and Maps

- Guidebooks

"Piccole Dolomiti e dintorni - Arrampicate scelte" by Guido Casarotto - An updated and complete selection of the best climbing routes in Little Dolomites, Ed. Cierre 2015

“Piccole Dolomiti – Pasubio” by Gianni Pieropan - Collana Guide dei Monti d’Italia, CAI TCI