Spigolo Sam - Tofana - Dolomiti

Overview

Hi, my name's Enrico, I'm an Italian Mountain Guide, and I want to describe a route that go up along the "Spigolo" (edge) of Tofana di Rozes, in the Dolomites.

My English is not very good, so you'll find some mistakes in some parts of this article.
Anyway, most of the article was transalted by my friend Nicholas, who is a native English speaker.

With all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the most famous rock faces in the Dolomites.
The first ascent was made in 2011 by Massimo Da Pozzo, Natasha Alexander and Samuele Majoni, it is 500m long and the difficult is 6b/6c.
I use the French system for grade this route, because I'm not very familiar with the Yosemite Decimal System.

Spigolo Sam, this is the name of the route, is a great mid-grade climb offering for those looking for a pleasant rock climb in the Dolomites.
Partly because the route ascends the famous Tofana di Rozes pillar and, partly because it was first ascended by Massimo ‘Mox’ da Pozzo who, there can be no doubt, is a bit of a connoisseur of those rock faces and beauty applied to climbing.

Getting There

GETTING THERE
From Cortina d’Ampezzo reach Rifugio Dibona, at the foot of the Tofana di Rozes. This is reached from Cortina by driving towards Passo Falzarego, past Pocol and few hairpin bends, and turning off right up onto the dirt track following signs for the refuge.

ACCESS
Approach this climb by walking up to the base of the pillar from rifugio Dibona. Take the obvious path from the hut which leads to the base of the pillar in circa 30 minutes. The start is located close to a corner on the left-hand side (west) of the imposing Pilastro della Tofana di Rozes (bolt visibile).

Route Description

The 500m line ascends difficulties in the region of 6b (5 pitches) and is seasoned by two 6a pitches, a few sections of grade 4 and 5+ and, slap bang in the middle, by a zesty 6c. The hallmarks: a beautiful crack on the first pitch, its excellent rock quality and the fantastic climbing (in line with the entire Pilastro di Rozes).

Spigolo Sam starts to the right of the historic route Via Costantini – Ghedina and climbs up to the ledge at half-height (the famous mule’s back breached by the even more famous route Costantini -Appollonio) and then bears left to join the Costantini-Ghedina for a pitch and a half before continuing on independently.
This shared section, explained Massimo da Pozzo, was necessary for two reasons. Firstly because continuing straight up off the ledge would have meant climbing through the yellow overhang and its very poor rock (the worst on the entire face). And secondly because in doing so the difficulties would most certainly have changed drastically, resulting in inconsistent grades anda less beautiful climb.

Talking about beauty and climbing… with all belays equipped for the abseils and its south facing orientation, Spigolo Sam is certainly an interesting outing on one of the most famous rock faces in the Dolomites.
The route can also be climbed at the start of the season, when the classic descent on foot is often blocked by abundant snow. One word of warning though: Mox recommends you take a set of camming devices which may be found useful to integrate the pro on the beautiful starting crack, and also on the easier grade IV and V pitches…
And if he says this, take heed!

Essential Gear

10 quickdraws, two ropes (usuful for an abseil off the route), a selection of nuts and mid-sized camming devices.

External Links

Download topo Spigolo Sam (PDF file)

https://www.guidedolomiti.com

Images

View Spigolo Sam - Tofana - Dolomiti Image Gallery - 4 Images