Split Lip Falls is a climb that has been talked about by locals and climbers from Edmonton for a few years. It has a reasonably short approach if you can drive to the back of the camping area.
The climb pours over the lip of a small rock amphitheatre making for a nice atmosphere. It is about 10 metres in length with several steeper and mixed variations. It is a great moderate for an early season warm up.
Disclaimer: I had not yet heard of a name for this climb and took the liberty of naming it after getting the business from an ice dagger to the lip. If there is already a name for this climb please pass it along and I will correct as necessary. Personally I like Split Lip Falls, but fair is fair.
The village of Cadomin can be reached most easily from Hinton or Edson.
If travelling from Hinton. Drive west of Hinton to Highway 40 South and follow this road for about 46 km to a T-intersection. Turn right here and follow it to the town of Cadomin 2 km down the road.
Google Map From Hinton
Coming from Edson. Drive west through Edson on Hwy 16 for about 9 km and turn south onto Secondary Road 47. This will take you South past the village of Robb and to another intersection after another 60 km. Stay left and continue south to Cadomin.
Google Map From Edson
Continue through Cadomin heading south until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left road which will take you under the overpass into the Whitehorse Creek Campgroud. Park as far back as you can depending on the condition of the road.
Google Map Cadomin to Parking Area
From the back of the campground continue west on the Whitehorse Creek horse trail following the Whitehorse Creek. After about 10 minute a side valley will come into view to your left. You can often see the ice if you walk far enough along the trail.
Cross the creek which is usually frozen and cross the meadow following the obvious drainage. Continue up the left side of the drainage for 10-15 minutes and work your way into the base of the falls when they come into view.
Split Lip Falls
The route is straight forward. There is one 10 metre pitch of grade 3 ice. The ice at the top is often rotten and thin so take care topping out.
Steeper lines often form both to the left and right and mixed opportunities abound in the amphitheatre.
Typical ice rack.
It is easiest to walk off to the climber's left and work your way back to the base or you can rappel the route.
There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:
Live The Vision - Ice Conditions