Split Mountain Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 178

Romain - Sep 20, 2011 3:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011

From Upper Basin  Sucess!

North slopes from Upper Basin, over fresh early season snow. Followed by an ascent of Mount Prater.


calipidder - Aug 16, 2011 10:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011

From Lake 3535  Sucess!

Definitely the easiest 14er (once you get to the base camp at Lake 3535). Walked up, guided on the best route by the abundant polemonium growing on the sandy use trails. It was a perfect day on the summit - warm and still - allowing us to linger for almost 90 minutes to enjoy the view. A day in the mountains doesn't get any better than this.


biz - Aug 8, 2011 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011

That drive sucks!  Sucess!

Too bad the road isn't in better shape. We made it with a toyota forerunner with 2wd. Our plan was to climb the east arete to the north summit, but a massive rockfall as we approached at 4:30am caused us to pause. The 2nd red flag was the summit shrouded in clouds. Decided to bail on that and climb the north slope. Beautiful views from the summit.


Darren9 - Aug 2, 2011 1:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011

Another 14er  Sucess!

Due to melted out conditions on the St. Jean Couloir, ended up ascending the North Slope with a small party from SMG. What an impressive summit!


hubix - Apr 13, 2011 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011

Winter ascent  Sucess!

Nice climb through St. Jean couloir.
Lost my summit pack on the way back between Lower Red Lake and the trail head. There is a yellow helmet attached to it. If you go up and find it please let me know.


Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:07 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2009

Scenic mountain  Sucess!

Beautiful mountain as seen from Red Lake, although the standard route was pretty dull. Next time would like to go for the St. Jean. Continued onto Prater.


mrchad9 - Aug 2, 2010 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010

2x  Sucess!

First visited in July 2006 as an easy class 2 climb up the west side while hiking the JMT. Camp at lake 3535 in Upper Basin was fantastic.

Again last weekend with Vitaliy, interesting loop covering 5 peaks. The views from Split are among my favorite.


jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 4:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2001

North Slope from the East  Sucess!

From Red Lake.


SkyPilot84 - Jul 13, 2010 3:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

North Slope from the East  Sucess!

Had no problem getting to the trailhead in a 4runner (9" ground clearance). 4WD wasn't necessary. The trail, although sandy and steep, was easy to follow, thanks to abundant trail markers. Views from the top were amazing, well worth the hike.


cdewhurst - Jul 12, 2010 12:18 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

Overnight at Red Lake  Sucess!

Lots of elevation gain. Had fun (albeit a lot of work) trekking up the snow to the saddle and glissading down some sections. View was awesome. Twisted ankle at Red lake so slow going back to car. Several sections of trail were as maintained as the drive in. Had to back track a few times but nothing major.


BCL - Jul 7, 2010 9:53 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2010

North Slope  Sucess!

From Red Lake.


boyblue - Jul 5, 2010 6:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 1981

From Red Lake  Sucess!

Drove in in my VW bus. Horrible drive with a lot of sickening scrapes and bumps under the vehicle. I knew there was no way I'd ever drive out that way unassisted (tow truck, I gue$$). I decided to climb the mountain and force myself not to worry until I was back at the TH.

After I'd set up my camp at Red Lake, I was joined by a small group of people. By some strange twist of good fortune, one of them was friends with, or was related to the people who own and operate the ranch that blocks easy access to the Red Mountain Creek TH. They had the keys to the gates and permission to drive through the ranch! They very kindly offered to let me follow them through upon our return to our vehicles. An incredible stroke of good luck!

With my mind freed from burden, I totally enjoyed the rest of the climb to the summit and the fine view found on top of this great peak.


kraymes - Jul 4, 2010 1:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 1998

North slpoe from the east  Sucess!

Cuz I had no mas to solo the east couloir.


sespegorilla - Jun 29, 2010 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010

Split Mountain  Sucess!

Davi Rivas and David Stillman via St. Jeans coulior from Red Lake. Descended St. Jeans with 1200ft glissade(friggin scary).
Approach trail sucks.


pratyush - Jun 9, 2010 12:25 pm Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2008

summitted  Sucess!

... with Bill Kells, Hamik Mukelyan, Julian Jamison and Michael, on 07-08 June' 2008, via the North Slope from the East (class 2)


autoblock - Apr 28, 2010 11:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2009

North Slope slog  Sucess!

Camping at Red Lake was beautiful, and the whole route was empty of people. I had the whole mountain to myself on summit day.

Other than that, a peak to bag and leave alone. Difficult trailhead (great directions + Google Earth made it a snap in the 4WD rental), then a steep, deep and loose slog to the summit. One stretch, just before plateauing out, of a few hundred feet of decent rock.

This is one to make on the first try! You'll never catch me here again.

Princess Buttercup

Princess Buttercup - Nov 30, 2009 11:14 pm Date Climbed: Mar 23, 2008

Easter on High  Sucess!

First major spring snow camp/climb. Amazing.


Guilty - Nov 11, 2009 5:20 am Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2009

North Slope  Sucess!

Hike up from Red lakes with some friends.


rmick25 - Sep 3, 2009 8:15 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2009

From the Muir Trail  Sucess!

After hiking up Mather Pass(which was no picnic) decided to hike Split Mtn as well because...it was there. Hell of a day almost 6,0000 ft. of ele. gain and 16 miles most with pack on. Sooo worth it though. I thought the view from Glen pass was sweet. It paled in comparison to Split though. Vaughn and Andy you missed out! Thanks also to the guy who gave me a granola bar and the women who provided the cheese and crackers. Life savers!


Shawn - Sep 3, 2009 11:22 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2009

Great experience...

The access was the biggest story for us. There's lots of good information out there about both the drive to the trailhead and the trail itself, but we didn't pay enough attention.

So, we took 2 wrong turns that cost us a lot of time on the approach. Once we finally got to the Red Lake TH, we hurried onto the 'trail', only that it wasn't. We spent 2 hours blazing a path on steep, loose, sandy and nasty Class 2/3 terrain until I had enough and said there must be a trail and we need to find it. Found it and the going was much easier but half the party bailed back to the HD and the others went to Red Lake. Party at Red Lake got there just in time for the rain and spent an OK night there and woke up to swirling clouds obscuring the summit and terrain above and decided to head down. Still a beautiful area and fun was had, but the mistakes and the weather meant no summit and the access/approach means we won't be too eager for attempt #2 for some time... :-)

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