rdesota - Oct 8, 2012 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2002
Wtih bro
a long hike up the east side and a quick trip from the bay area over the weekend. Found it interesting that my father had climbed split mountain by moonlight 25 years prior.
My car wouldn't have made it, so parked near Tinemaha campground and hiked/jogged the extra 6.5 miles to and from the trailhead and did the standard route. I'd agree that the crux is more like loose class 2 than it is class 3. 12:45 C2C.
iditarod81 - Sep 6, 2012 1:33 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012
Glad we rented a Jeep
The road in is beastly and our Prius would not have survived. Beautiful and remote, though, nice to be in a less crowded place.
CWessels - Aug 3, 2012 7:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2012
From Taboose
Up the North Slope. This seemed like an endless slog. A route from the east would probably have been far more enjoyable.
MountainManDan - Jun 21, 2012 4:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2012
Needs More Summit Reg Paper
Summited via north slope June 8th. Overnighted at Red Lake. After reading many posts I think I can save a lot of people trouble with getting to the TH. Took the short cut via South Fish Springs Rd. in the middle of the night to get to the TH. USE THIS ROUTE TO AVOID MCMURRAY MEADOW RD!! Used the girlfriends Subuaru Outback, clearance was perfect - 4 wheel drive was not needed. Someone mentioned doing it in a Ford Focus...crazy bastards. Passed Tinemaha Campgrounds onto Fuller Rd. After studying the satelite image from google earth and a good topo we made all the correct turns and ended up at the MARKED TH. DO NOT START HERE!! Travel back 1/8th of a mile to a spring (looks and sounds like a decent creek with tons of green brush) start here. The trail will begin switchbacking up the hill. THIS trail was in good shape all the way to the lake and no bushwhacking but encountered some steep sections with loose scree. Got a 6:30am start and made it to Red Lake shortly before noon. Stayed the night. 3 hours from Red Lake to the summit of Split. Enjoy the views north and south from "South Palisade" as you get a good look at almost all the 14ers in the region, including White Mountain.
thexcat - May 10, 2012 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2012
From Red Lake via N Slopes
With a large group of 7. Excellent conditions. Favorite part was the snow climb before reaching Prater-Split saddle. First hiked Split and then Prater.
Romain - Sep 20, 2011 3:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011
From Upper Basin
North slopes from Upper Basin, over fresh early season snow. Followed by an ascent of Mount Prater. Trip report
calipidder - Aug 16, 2011 10:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011
From Lake 3535
Definitely the easiest 14er (once you get to the base camp at Lake 3535). Walked up, guided on the best route by the abundant polemonium growing on the sandy use trails. It was a perfect day on the summit - warm and still - allowing us to linger for almost 90 minutes to enjoy the view. A day in the mountains doesn't get any better than this.
biz - Aug 8, 2011 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
That drive sucks!
Too bad the road isn't in better shape. We made it with a toyota forerunner with 2wd. Our plan was to climb the east arete to the north summit, but a massive rockfall as we approached at 4:30am caused us to pause. The 2nd red flag was the summit shrouded in clouds. Decided to bail on that and climb the north slope. Beautiful views from the summit.
Darren9 - Aug 2, 2011 1:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011
Another 14er
Due to melted out conditions on the St. Jean Couloir, ended up ascending the North Slope with a small party from SMG. What an impressive summit!
Nice climb through St. Jean couloir.
Lost my summit pack on the way back between Lower Red Lake and the trail head. There is a yellow helmet attached to it. If you go up and find it please let me know.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:07 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2009
Scenic mountain
Beautiful mountain as seen from Red Lake, although the standard route was pretty dull. Next time would like to go for the St. Jean. Continued onto Prater.
mrchad9 - Aug 2, 2010 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
2x
First visited in July 2006 as an easy class 2 climb up the west side while hiking the JMT. Camp at lake 3535 in Upper Basin was fantastic.
Again last weekend with Vitaliy, interesting loop covering 5 peaks. The views from Split are among my favorite.
jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 4:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2001
Had no problem getting to the trailhead in a 4runner (9" ground clearance). 4WD wasn't necessary. The trail, although sandy and steep, was easy to follow, thanks to abundant trail markers. Views from the top were amazing, well worth the hike.
rdesota - Oct 8, 2012 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 9, 2002
Wtih broa long hike up the east side and a quick trip from the bay area over the weekend. Found it interesting that my father had climbed split mountain by moonlight 25 years prior.
TheNobleSunfish - Sep 28, 2012 3:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 27, 2012
Extra approach!My car wouldn't have made it, so parked near Tinemaha campground and hiked/jogged the extra 6.5 miles to and from the trailhead and did the standard route. I'd agree that the crux is more like loose class 2 than it is class 3. 12:45 C2C.
iditarod81 - Sep 6, 2012 1:33 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2012
Glad we rented a JeepThe road in is beastly and our Prius would not have survived. Beautiful and remote, though, nice to be in a less crowded place.
CWessels - Aug 3, 2012 7:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2012
From TabooseUp the North Slope. This seemed like an endless slog. A route from the east would probably have been far more enjoyable.
MountainManDan - Jun 21, 2012 4:31 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2012
Needs More Summit Reg PaperSummited via north slope June 8th. Overnighted at Red Lake. After reading many posts I think I can save a lot of people trouble with getting to the TH. Took the short cut via South Fish Springs Rd. in the middle of the night to get to the TH. USE THIS ROUTE TO AVOID MCMURRAY MEADOW RD!! Used the girlfriends Subuaru Outback, clearance was perfect - 4 wheel drive was not needed. Someone mentioned doing it in a Ford Focus...crazy bastards. Passed Tinemaha Campgrounds onto Fuller Rd. After studying the satelite image from google earth and a good topo we made all the correct turns and ended up at the MARKED TH. DO NOT START HERE!! Travel back 1/8th of a mile to a spring (looks and sounds like a decent creek with tons of green brush) start here. The trail will begin switchbacking up the hill. THIS trail was in good shape all the way to the lake and no bushwhacking but encountered some steep sections with loose scree. Got a 6:30am start and made it to Red Lake shortly before noon. Stayed the night. 3 hours from Red Lake to the summit of Split. Enjoy the views north and south from "South Palisade" as you get a good look at almost all the 14ers in the region, including White Mountain.
thexcat - May 10, 2012 4:41 pm Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2012
From Red Lake via N SlopesWith a large group of 7. Excellent conditions. Favorite part was the snow climb before reaching Prater-Split saddle. First hiked Split and then Prater.
rocky6x - May 12, 2012 11:27 pm
Re: From Red Lake via N Slopesdoing this peak at the end of month. How much snow? Crampons? How low is the snow, Red Lake? Thanks.
wmolland - Apr 30, 2012 8:39 pm Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2012
From Red LakeA nice scramble to just below the ridge and then a fun snow climb before a cruise to the summit. Woohoo California 14ers!
krrt2000 - Feb 26, 2012 8:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1994
Red Lake, North SlopeWith Duane, A litte 4 wheelin, no tent poles and rain threatening.
XtremeDiver - Jan 27, 2012 4:14 pm Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2009
St Jeans ColouirIcy most of the way up. Steeper than I had thought and longer both in time and distance.
ephrat - Dec 26, 2011 8:41 am Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011
Via the St Jean CouloirAwesome outing! Trip report here.
Romain - Sep 20, 2011 3:32 am Date Climbed: Sep 15, 2011
From Upper BasinNorth slopes from Upper Basin, over fresh early season snow. Followed by an ascent of Mount Prater. Trip report
calipidder - Aug 16, 2011 10:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011
From Lake 3535Definitely the easiest 14er (once you get to the base camp at Lake 3535). Walked up, guided on the best route by the abundant polemonium growing on the sandy use trails. It was a perfect day on the summit - warm and still - allowing us to linger for almost 90 minutes to enjoy the view. A day in the mountains doesn't get any better than this.
biz - Aug 8, 2011 4:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2011
That drive sucks!Too bad the road isn't in better shape. We made it with a toyota forerunner with 2wd. Our plan was to climb the east arete to the north summit, but a massive rockfall as we approached at 4:30am caused us to pause. The 2nd red flag was the summit shrouded in clouds. Decided to bail on that and climb the north slope. Beautiful views from the summit.
Darren9 - Aug 2, 2011 1:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2011
Another 14erDue to melted out conditions on the St. Jean Couloir, ended up ascending the North Slope with a small party from SMG. What an impressive summit!
hubix - Apr 13, 2011 10:38 pm Date Climbed: Apr 10, 2011
Winter ascentNice climb through St. Jean couloir.
Lost my summit pack on the way back between Lower Red Lake and the trail head. There is a yellow helmet attached to it. If you go up and find it please let me know.
Daria - Aug 15, 2010 9:07 pm Date Climbed: May 16, 2009
Scenic mountainBeautiful mountain as seen from Red Lake, although the standard route was pretty dull. Next time would like to go for the St. Jean. Continued onto Prater.
mrchad9 - Aug 2, 2010 4:40 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2010
2xFirst visited in July 2006 as an easy class 2 climb up the west side while hiking the JMT. Camp at lake 3535 in Upper Basin was fantastic.
Again last weekend with Vitaliy, interesting loop covering 5 peaks. The views from Split are among my favorite.
jonhersh - Jul 27, 2010 4:21 pm Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2001
North Slope from the EastFrom Red Lake.
SkyPilot84 - Jul 13, 2010 3:16 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010
North Slope from the EastHad no problem getting to the trailhead in a 4runner (9" ground clearance). 4WD wasn't necessary. The trail, although sandy and steep, was easy to follow, thanks to abundant trail markers. Views from the top were amazing, well worth the hike.