The access was the biggest story for us. There's lots of good information out there about both the drive to the trailhead and the trail itself, but we didn't pay enough attention.
So, we took 2 wrong turns that cost us a lot of time on the approach. Once we finally got to the Red Lake TH, we hurried onto the 'trail', only that it wasn't. We spent 2 hours blazing a path on steep, loose, sandy and nasty Class 2/3 terrain until I had enough and said there must be a trail and we need to find it. Found it and the going was much easier but half the party bailed back to the HD and the others went to Red Lake. Party at Red Lake got there just in time for the rain and spent an OK night there and woke up to swirling clouds obscuring the summit and terrain above and decided to head down. Still a beautiful area and fun was had, but the mistakes and the weather meant no summit and the access/approach means we won't be too eager for attempt #2 for some time... :-)
The hardest part of this climb is getting to the trailhead. I scratched the shit out of the sides of my truck (Black Chevy Silverado), but once you get to Red Lake, this is a pretty cool climb. A little loose in the steeper chutes, but not too bad.
An overnight trip from 3 miles below the Red Lake trailhead (the "no trespassing" shortcut helped, but not enough for our poor car). Red Lake is an awesome place to camp.
clear day, spectacular views
Gave up on the original goal of St. Jean Gully when we saw the debris field of rocks that had shot out of it. Changed plans to the North Slope and we weren't disappointed. Climbed a 35-40 degree snow hill for about 750' to gain the north slope, little more than a class 2 like the route description states, but had an axe and crampons so it was no problem. Great view on top, thunder storms had us running off the ridge in the early afternoon.
Ascended the N. slope route via the Red Lake approach. Took some very humbling turns on my splitboard in highly variable snow conditions below the Split-Prater saddle...glad I had the (dis)pleasure of hauling it all the way to 13K.
Reached the summit on our "layover" day while camped at the lake below Mather Pass. Lots of scree but a beautiful summit view on a perfectly clear and windless day.
I spent a week around the Palisade Lakes and Mather Pass just bagging peaks in the area. This was the easy hike up from the John Muir Trail.
Climbed from Red Lake with an SPS group. It was a tough, but enjoyable hike. I really liked the view.
7500 feet in one day... a new personal record - the climb was wonderful though - those cliffs when you first hit the ridge are wicked... and the split part of the mountain up top is wild - I think I am running out of easy 14ers, hmmm...
Soloed the N ridge from Red Lake when Mike hit the wall after climbing Mt Sill the prior day. These were my final two Calif 14ers.
definitely more difficult than i expected but a beautiful mountain. the drive to red lake trailhead was a real treat!
Daytripped from Orange County. I thought it was pretty tough for an "easy 14er".
Climbed Split Mountain June 16th of 2008, via the N. Slope from Taboose Pass. I easily nabbed Mount Prater the next day and spent a nice two night stay just below both peaks.
Camped at Red Lake. Uneventful climb.
Climbed Split with my wife last summer. Great fun- a little challenging route-finding through scree slope, but isolated and fun and worth the effort just the same.
Climbed Northeast Arete (IV, 5.8) with Pavel on a perfect summer day. 15 long pitches (150'+) and one rappel with a few memorable spots, abundance of loose rock (although, not enough to make it disgusting) and wicked knife edges. Existing beta was useless; we pretty much found our own way which included a 5.10 pitch. 11.5 hours from the route start to the summit ridge. Descended in the dark for a 19 hour camp to camp marathon.
Many props to the late great Galen Rowell for soloing this route on his FA. There is no way in the world I'd attempt something like this unroped.
First trip back into the mountains after surgery to repair a broken ankle 21 weeks earlier ... thus this trip worked me, on of the hardest times I've had in the mountains. Hot weather didn't help - +100degF at trail head. Climbed with Ken T. Bottom line = a safe and successful 14'er summit.
We camped near the lake and on the summit day we departed quite early around 4:00 am. By 7:30 am we already summited the peak and soon (around 9 :00 am ) safely returned to the base camp. It was nice, clear day.