Boy, did I pick a bad time of the year to do this route. It looked nice from below but was filled with dirt, loose rock, wet remnants of snow and a patch of ice here and there. Climb took forever and I ended up getting back to the car around 6 a.m.
Just a note to support a photo added showing the Oregon National Guard Chinook Helicopter on the rescue meission mentioned by climbers in this log.
I was heading up St Jean Couloir, but a rescue was going on towards the top of it. No snow and a lot of rock fall. I opt for the North Ridge.
The only time I didn't bring a camera and I regret it!
I watched as the Army CH-47 helicopter fly up and down three times to evacuate the supplies and ground crew by hoist . It was very dramatic with it hovering between the peaks. Spent a lot of time watching the action and talking with a rescue guy. I guest someone reported me missing too.
I did the round-trip from trailhead under 8 hours. This was my third time up and third time completing all the Cal. fourteener's. YEA!
Oh, I made it to trailhead in a two-wheel drive truck from the campground. All you need to do is follow the pave/dirt road from the campground to the ranch. Go right to the end of the his fence, then left following the fence line, and another left at the top, and it runs into Red Lake Trailhead road. Road is very very bumpy.
Did a solo dayhike to the summit via the Red Lake trail. Damn that road sucks! Got to watch search and rescue team fly in with a chopper in an attempt to rescue a fallen climber. The climber had taken a fall in one of the steep couloirs the day before and had to spend the night up there while his buddies came down to call for help. The chopper made a number of trips back and forth from the valley to the mountain dropping off gear, supplies, and 4 or 5 crew. I arrived at the top of the couloir (via the North Ridge) at the same time the first search and rescue guy did. On my way down from the summit I talked more with the rescue guys and they said they would probably be spending the night up there with the injured climber. The climber had apparently sustained a broken leg and laceration to the arm. Hope no one got injured getting him out of there. He really was in an extremely difficult location to get to.
Had a long and fun climb from the Red Lake Trailhead. I think the hardest part was making my legs go back down again! We did the round trip in 9hrs.
Day hiked the North Slope of Split via Red Lake with climbing buddies Mike and Alex. It took us just over 16 hours roundtrip. We had beautiful weather all day.
Climbed it in a day from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Mike. Had a great time.
Day hiked from the Red Lake trailhead with friends Miguel and Alex. Perfect weather. A very long and fun day!
Melissa and I reached the summit after a long trek from Red Lake trailhead. The endless boulderfield and talus was enough for one trip, one week, one lifetime. This particular summit completed my personal Grand Slam of climbing all 14ers in the lower 48 states, all CO 14ers, all CA 14ers and Mount Rainier. My trip report has a few more details.
Another successful peak bagged. Huffed it from just outside the ranch(car wouldn't make the drive) to basecamp at Red Mt Lake on Tuesday. Wednesday hit the trail at 7am, summited at 10am. Then hauled ass down to the car by 3pm. Would suggest taking a 4wd, so you don't have to hike the extra 3.5 miles!!! Weather was perfect though. Split Mt also needs a new register book. If you are heading up, please bring one with you.
We spent a cold, windy night camped on the Split-Prater saddle and woke up to climb the north ridge to the summit by sunrise.
What a day hike! We got lost in the thick brush on the hike down in the dark, though. Only took us 1 hour to find the trail again.
This could be the most awesome arete climb I've ever done. This could be the most terrifying route I've ever done. Put these two facts together and you've got a great route. Long and loose, Kenn Kenega and I are lucky to tell the tale after this climb. We got both summits on this one, walked back to camp in the dark.
I soloed the St Jean Couloir on good water ice in late October of 1998. The route in hard ice conditions, is propably the fastest way to get to the top of Split Mountain. Descended the North Ridge to Red Lake.
Miguel Carmona and I hiked up to Red Lake from McMurry Meadow Rd and the trailhead in 1984.. We were checking out the Central Couloir for later ascent. Since we had no Guide Book, we just scrambled up the face to the left of the Hobbs/Harrington line.
First 14er of the season, climbed with ScottyS. The "trail" to Red Lake is unpleasant at best. Once to Red Lake, the traveling was fine. Weird weather, Split was the only 14er in the vicinity that was not socked in.
Two hours to summit from upper basin. Had the pleasure of meeting Mr. Mendenhall at the summit.
Side trip from kearsarge to south lake backpack trip.
Climbed with bearbnz for my first 14'er. The trail to Red Lake gets 2 thumbs down, but after that it was nice. Less snow would mean less talus side-hilling to the ridge! Round trip time = 9hrs 45min.
Yes, its a long slog up to Red Lake, but an interesting climb from there with a bit of route finding involved. Had a nice hiking companion for the first part of the hike up to Red Lake. Long day for me.
On the 4X drive in we listened to Metallica. We then hiked up to Red Lake, almost entirely in the dark. The song 'Sad but True' kept going through my head.... HATE! I'm your HATE! I'm your hate when you want love...DO! Do my work! Do my dirty work scapegoat!... That pretty much describes hiking up to Red Lake in the dark. This was the 2nd time I had an altitude headache on all the 14ers I've climbed, so it was fitting that the same song returned during the 'class 1' final talus slog with the little man in my head stabbing my eyes with an icepick everytime I jolted my steps.
I must return and climb Split Mtn again under better 'conditions'. The graceful ridges and multihued faces are not to be missed. The first snow had fallen above 12,800 feet, and this added character to the faces and ridges.
Yikes, I hope Metallica doesn't sue summitpost like they did napster for illegal use of their lyrics.