Starlight Buttress - Direct Start

Overview

This is an elegant line running almost straight up the Starlight Buttress. Instead of starting in the Clyde Couloir, start on the clean rock at the toe of the buttress.

Getting There

Approach from the east and bivy near the Palisade Glacier.

Route Description

Crampon across the Palisade Glacier and get to the toe of the Starlight Buttress, immediately right of the Clyde Couloir. Climb across the mote/bergschrund and get on the rock. Ditch your ice gear here. The bergschrund is a mote at this location and typically much smaller than at the bottom of the Clyde Couloir.

Rock climb straight up two pitches (5.7) to a large sloping ledge. (You could park a small car on this ledge). You may see rap slings and a fixed piton en route.

Climb left from the ledge, and up, joining 4th class rock of the standard route. After 2 more pitches, coil the rope & start scrambling. Continue to the notch and the Milk Bottle summit. I rate the Milk Bottle 5.5X.

Fishklr and I climbed this route bivy to bivy in 12 hours.

Essential Gear

Helmet, crampons, 1 axe, light 50M rope, light alpine rack of small cams & nuts. Big sling for Milk Bottle.

Descent

Scramble down the buttress and when it gets steep, start rappelling. Look for rap slings but make your own judgment whether they're safe. Backup suspect slings. Five raps (50M rope) should get you down.

Images

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