Starlight Buttress - Direct Start

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Mountaineering
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
A long day
Rock Difficulty:
5.7 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
4
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Starlight Buttress - Direct Start
Created On: Aug 16, 2012
Last Edited On: Aug 16, 2012

Overview

This is an elegant line running almost straight up the Starlight Buttress. Instead of starting in the Clyde Couloir, start on the clean rock at the toe of the buttress.

Getting There

Approach from the east and bivy near the Palisade Glacier.

Route Description

Starlight3 P1
Crampon across the Palisade Glacier and get to the toe of the Starlight Buttress, immediately right of the Clyde Couloir. Climb across the mote/bergschrund and get on the rock. Ditch your ice gear here. The bergschrund is a mote at this location and typically much smaller than at the bottom of the Clyde Couloir.

Starlight2Looking down P1
Rock climb straight up two pitches (5.7) to a large sloping ledge. (You could park a small car on this ledge). You may see rap slings and a fixed piton en route.

Starlight4Top of P2
Climb left from the ledge, and up, joining 4th class rock of the standard route. After 2 more pitches, coil the rope & start scrambling. Continue to the notch and the Milk Bottle summit. I rate the Milk Bottle 5.5X.

Fishklr and I climbed this route bivy to bivy in 12 hours.

Essential Gear

Helmet, crampons, 1 axe, light 50M rope, light alpine rack of small cams & nuts. Big sling for Milk Bottle.
Starlight7Donno on the summit

Descent

Scramble down the buttress and when it gets steep, start rappelling. Look for rap slings but make your own judgment whether they're safe. Backup suspect slings. Five raps (50M rope) should get you down.
Starlight6Fishklr decending the Milk Bottle


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