Starlight Peak Climber's Log

Viewing: 1-20 of 82

physics - Aug 8, 2006 9:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2006

Route Climbed: Clyde Couloir  Sucess!

best climb I have ever done to date; climbed with none other than fbagni; the conditions were perfect for climbing the clyde couloir this year, the berg was barely passable without any substantial difficulty; some moderate ice-fall on the route but the conditions were excellent for two-tool climbing. soloed the milk bottle and then belayed up Fred; summit day was 5:30AM to 12:00 night from Sam Mack. good trip!

Mountain Jim

Mountain Jim - Mar 14, 2006 6:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 1979

From Thunderbolt  Sucess!

The ridge between Thunderbolt & Starlight is great fun !!!

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Oct 5, 2005 3:16 am

Route Climbed: Traverse from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Glenn and Curt. The summit block on Starlight is as impressive as I'd imagined, maybe more so. I thought it seemed trickier than the Thunderbolt summit block, but maybe that was just because it was a bit more awkward. Glad the downclimb was actually easier than the climb up... sets my mind at ease that I can go back without a rope sometime. Yeah, right!

The traverse from Thunderbolt was very enjoyable, too... the crux was a short 5.7 chimney just below the Starlight summit, for which we were glad we'd brought along a short rope and some pro. But besides this, most of the traverse is exposed but fairly easy.


rdesota - Sep 26, 2005 10:31 am

Route Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: September 24, 2005  Sucess!

climbed with my brother Tony and wife Lauren. Despite gloomy weather predictions, we had fantastic weather. The climbing was enjoyable and the route description in Porcella/Burns' Fourteeners was just right. Nice exposure on top! Made the last rappel at night down the southwest chute. Very fun route.


kovarpa - Sep 8, 2005 8:31 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from North Pal Date Climbed: August 31, 2005  Sucess!

Very exposed solo traverse from North Pal - at one point, I was born again. 50 mins from NP, 25 mins back. Milk Bottle is something!!


GlennG - Sep 5, 2005 11:16 pm

Route Climbed: From Thunderbolt Date Climbed: September 5th, 2005  Sucess!

The second peak in a dayhike of Thunderbolt, Starlight, and North Palisade from South Lake. Climbed with my little bro Curt and Matthew Holliman. The summit block was as impressive as I imagined.

Rick Kent

Rick Kent - Aug 24, 2005 6:52 pm

Route Climbed: NW Chute Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Paul Allegretti (completebum), Courtney Pursell (cp0915), and Brian McElwain. Weather was beautiful! We climbed up half the mountain under the light of the full moon. We were surprised to see 2 headlamps descending off the mountain at 3:00am. Turns out they had the same strategy we did -- to wait for the moon to rise. Paul was first to summit and was already on top of the milk bottle by the time I got there. He climbed it 3 times: twice solo and once top-roped. We spent about an hour and half on the summit playing around and enjoying the day.


Completebum - Aug 22, 2005 2:45 pm

Route Climbed: NW Chute Date Climbed: August 21, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed with Courtney and Rick. Easily one of the most enjoyable routes I've done in the Sierras. Once in the chute there is very little slogging and the climbing is enjoyable. The milk bottle lived up to its reputation making for some great summit shots.

Brian Kalet

Brian Kalet - Aug 1, 2005 3:17 pm

Route Climbed: Northwest Chute Date Climbed: July 31, 2005  Sucess!

Got slightly off route near the top of the Northwest Chute and encountered a climber's gear from 1990...I know this because of his journal.


danman3156 - Aug 1, 2005 2:42 pm

Route Climbed: Piper at the Gates of Dawn Date Climbed: July 26 2005  Sucess!

An alright climb, a lot of loose rock to knock down on your partner. We summited but had a very long day.

17 hours to be exact.

cottersnow - Apr 22, 2005 11:56 pm

Route Climbed: from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: 08/04  Sucess!

I don't know what the deal was but we did 4 rappells or so to get to the top of the Underhill coulior. Besides that it was climbing that will be remembered - especially the unique summit block.

Steve Larson

Steve Larson - Nov 15, 2004 2:24 am

Route Climbed: Starlight Buttress Date Climbed: July, 1982  Sucess!

Did this with Sara Steck on a day off from our duties with the Palisade School of Mountaineering. Back in the day. Lovely weather. No 'schrund problems, traversed over to North Pal, then down the U-Notch.

ripper333 - Oct 24, 2004 5:00 pm

Route Climbed: traverse from thunderbolt Date Climbed: sept 2004  Sucess!

part of a long day!


Misha - Aug 16, 2004 11:28 am

Route Climbed: Traverse from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: August 9, 2004  Sucess!

Awesome knife edge! We did not find the downclimb into the notch between T-bolt and Starlight and ended up rappeling on the East side (chimney) of the ridge. On our 2nd rappel, our rope got stuck and Bryan had to climb up to retrieve it. 3rd rappel ended up being almost parallel to the ground. Stayed on the very edge of ridge after the notch, great 5th class climbing!

Aside from rappeling, we did not rope up.

Click for the trip report.


bearbnz - Oct 17, 2002 7:45 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: August 17, 2002  Sucess!

Traversed from Thunderbolt with ScottyS, and we continued on to North Pal, Polemonium, and Sill. This is a fun traverse with lots of cool climbing, at a moderate grade.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Sep 23, 2002 1:30 pm

Route Climbed: Starlight Buttress Date Climbed: 2001  Sucess!

Tim Winiarski, Bob Lathuras and I climbed this awesome route on a perfect day. Difficult ice over the 'shrund. We left the ice gear on a ledge and picked it up on the way down. Video taped the whole climb with 2 digital camcorders. Recommended.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Aug 22, 2002 7:37 pm

Route Climbed: From Thunderbolt Date Climbed: Aug 21, 2002  Sucess!

Day 5 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. From South Lake, climbed Southwest Chute #1 to Thunderbolt, traversed to Starlight - North Pal - Polemonium, down the Southwest Chute from the U-Notch, then back to South Lake. 14hrs CTC.

Climbed the milk bottle too, by the easier 5.4 route. Trip Report.


ScottyS - Aug 18, 2002 9:25 pm

Route Climbed: Traverse from Thunderbolt Date Climbed: August 17, 2002  Sucess!

Traversed from Thunderbolt to Starlight to N.Pal to Polemonium to Sill with bearbnz. We freeclimbed most of the route, with three rappels and three belayed (probably unneccesary) pitches total. Heavy packs and little route knowledge (Secor's book only) made for slow time --- OK, maybe lack of fitness contributed! Left the car around 530, summited Thunderbolt around 1100, summited Sill at 2130. Waited for daylight to decend an east couloir of Sill and walk down to the S. Fork Trail. Got to the car at 1330 on Aug. 18 and drove home to get some sleep.


Guilty - Jul 9, 2002 2:04 am

Route Climbed: Palisade Traverse Date Climbed: July 6,02  Sucess!

Started with my partner Ian, from T-bolt and traverse to Starlight then N. Pal, Pol, and Sill. Making for nice long rush. Oh, we never touched a rope.


Guilty - Nov 11, 2001 2:53 pm

Route Climbed: North to South traverse. Date Climbed: 09/09/01  Sucess!

Started from Sam Mack Meadow at 7:35 am, ascended the East Face of T-Bolt, then traverse South to Starlight Peak , North Pal, Pole, and continue traversing to Mt. Sill. Solo.

Back in time to bath while the sun was still up.

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