Had great fun leading the Milk Bottle. Thanks to my SP partners Tom Becht and Glenn Gookin. Started at South Lake and exited Glacier Lodge. We also had great fun climing our selected route up Starlight coming from Thunderbolt.
Long day doing the Palisades Traverse with Glenn and Augie.
Hit SP as part of the Palisades traverse last summer. Great exposure and difficult route-finding, but Bruce kept us on course.
Fun traverse from North Palisade. Meant to go on to Thunderbolt, but had some routefinding trouble (and dehydration), and trusted the better judgement of the little guy in my head that said "if you don't climb it today, that just means you will have to come back to the Sierras again."
Descended SW gully - one of the best rap anchors I've seen in awhile - a webbing knot poorly equalized with a protruding flexing pin. I shook my head and chuckled at the sight, then shook my head and grimaced after realizing there was no way to back it up, and no better option for another rap anchor.
because we actually knew where we were going!
Up it twice but to the very top of the milk bottle once! Last was during a palisade traverse where we bivied a few feet down from the summit of North Pal.
Clyde couloir to Starlight Buttress. Fantabulous!
T-bolt to Polemonium with Shay. Altitude + regular sick = "double whammy". Nice views.
Day hiked T-bolt to Sill traverse with fossana and mybackyard. Ran into Arturo Crespo, Peter McColgan and Bill at the bottom of the milkbottle.
Route Climbed: Traverse from Thunderbolt
Date Climbed: September 9, 2006
Climbed with Javier and DustysDawg. Part of the Thunderbolt to Sill traverse single day push (18 hrs: South Lake/T-bolt to Sill traverse/Glacier Lodge).
T-bolt to Sill Traverse day hike with fossana & forjan.
My brother and I did the traverse from T-bolt to Starlight as part of our T-bolt to Sill traverse. This was a fun section of the climb and the Milkbottle makes for an awesome summit pinnacle.
Marty and I did the T-bolt to North Pal traverse from South Lake TH; ~15 hrs CTC. Got pushed off of North Pal by lightening ~1pm; otherwise another great day in the Sierras with great company. Getting down & across the Starlight-North Pal notch was the crux of the route for me
We tried last year July 4th, heavy snow year, there was no snow bridge and we couldn't climb it. This year with super low snow fall, rocks are more exposed, and we were able to pass the bergshrund. Rest of it are a few good pitches with lots of loose class 3. But it was a good 14er, only four more to go.
Second stop of the day...
After making Thunderbolt the previous day, I soloed the milk bottle and finished off the 14ers list.
One of the better routes in the Palisades. The Milkbottle is certainly an awesome sight.
Best climb ever. Climbed the couloir without pro; perfect conditions. Solid neve. Physics is the man. He pretty much soloed the whole route - including the milk bottle.
best climb I have ever done to date; climbed with none other than fbagni; the conditions were perfect for climbing the clyde couloir this year, the berg was barely passable without any substantial difficulty; some moderate ice-fall on the route but the conditions were excellent for two-tool climbing. soloed the milk bottle and then belayed up Fred; summit day was 5:30AM to 12:00 night from Sam Mack. good trip!
The ridge between Thunderbolt & Starlight is great fun !!!
Climbed with Glenn and Curt. The summit block on Starlight is as impressive as I'd imagined, maybe more so. I thought it seemed trickier than the Thunderbolt summit block, but maybe that was just because it was a bit more awkward. Glad the downclimb was actually easier than the climb up... sets my mind at ease that I can go back without a rope sometime. Yeah, right!
The traverse from Thunderbolt was very enjoyable, too... the crux was a short 5.7 chimney just below the Starlight summit, for which we were glad we'd brought along a short rope and some pro. But besides this, most of the traverse is exposed but fairly easy.