State of Confusion, 5.10bX

6th Pitch- 50m- 5.10b/ Where the fun begins! I thought this pitch was a bit sandbagged towards the end. The first 20m plus is just moving up and left via easy ground to reach the base of a corner. Follow a crack on the left wall up until it makes sense to traverse back right into the corner. There is a bolt on the right wall, but it sort of protects after you make the awkward traverse back into the corner. Good rock and climbing lead up to a small roof with a suspect bolt underneath and right. Move left into the intermittent finger crack and make some bold moves to exit the left side of the chimney. I had a C3 in here, but was not thrilled with the protection of these full on 5.10 moves. Another fixed belay, but this one had no rap tat in 2010.
State of Confusion, 5.10bX, Necromancer Wall, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, July, 2010


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