Stately Pleasure Dome Climber's Log

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Deb

Deb - Oct 11, 2018 1:27 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2018

West Country  Sucess!

I got jammed with P2 & 4; great stuff! Nuts and Aliens got me up P2 with a screaming right calf. Think I placed 3 pieces on P4 - easy! Enjoyable climb with good friends.

secander

secander - Aug 30, 2016 11:06 am Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2016

Boltway + Hermaphrodite Flake  Sucess!

Climbed Hermaphrodite Flake + Boltway

Fairweather

Fairweather - Nov 12, 2015 1:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 9, 1980

South Crack GW Book & others  Sucess!

South Crack 3-4 times. Very fun - easy for the grade.
Great White Book - over-rated, long lie back.
Sweet Nothings - nice edges, fun climb.
Get Slick - fun climb.

nikhilm - Jul 9, 2014 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2014

White Flake  Sucess!

Also climbed Hermaphrodite flake the weekend before.

Larry Laverty

Larry Laverty - Mar 28, 2013 4:01 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1976

Via The Great White Book  Sucess!

Way, way back in the day. Had just gotten started a few months before in climbing. This route, the sunny day, the view of the lake, I'll always remember.

Mooner

Mooner - Jul 24, 2012 9:41 am

Up I Go

7/18/12 Climbed via West Country roped with Matt J.

oliverkalt

oliverkalt - Jun 2, 2012 1:31 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012

West Country  Sucess!

Very nice!

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 16, 2011 5:41 pm

Hermophrodite flake/boltway  Sucess!

Climbed here day after climbing Third Pillar. Cool place. Was pretty beat from the day before. Turned out we 'walked off' some 5th class climb...good it ended up ok.

jimegan

jimegan - Jan 7, 2011 10:37 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2003

Stately Pleasure Dome  Sucess!

Climbed with Don Palmer

rhyang

rhyang - Sep 25, 2010 3:03 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2010

Boltway, Great White Book  Sucess!

Swapped leads with Chris Gibson on a beautiful early autumn day. We did Hermaphrodite Flake & the Boltway again. Then finished out the day on Great White Book.

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Routes climbed: West Country, Boltway (1st pitch only)
Date climbed: 24-October-2009

Climbed with John. Saturday we swapped leads on West Country -- he led pitches 1 and 3.

Sunday we climbed Hermaphrodite Flake. I led the first 5.7 pitch of the Boltway, then we rapped off (two 60m ropes). Be careful not to get ropes stuck in the cracks while pulling the rope on the second rappel !

Beautiful weather - warm in the sun.

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Date climbed: 3-July-2009
Route climbed: South Crack

Climbed with K. Chaltikian on a beautiful day. He led the first two 5.8 - 5.9 pitches (linked pitches 1-3 w/60m rope) and last two; I led the runout 5.6 - 5.7 friction pitch. Classic climb !

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Route climbed: Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway
Date climbed: 11-August-2007

Climbed with Matthew Holliman. Led three pitches, doing the 'up over the top' variation on the flake this time. The first pitch of the boltway was 5.6 - 5.7 according to the topo, fun lead in my new Acopa JB's. Matthew didn't seem to be enthusiastic about the final 5.8 pitch, and I didn't feel like leading it again, so we rapped off - two double rope rappels got us back to the ground.

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Route Climbed: Hermaphrodite Flake to the Boltway
Date Climbed: 3-Aug-2007

Swapped leads with Chris Gibson. We simul-soloed to the start of the flake (4th class) and then I led under the flake (5.4). That thing made me nervous =:-O

Chris then led up the Boltway (5.8). I led the last pitch, which had some 5.8 friction moves and then traversed into an easy crack system to the left where it joins West Country.

Then soaked my foot in Tenaya Lake :)

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Date Climbed: 6-Aug-2006
Route Climbed: West Country

Swapped leads with Calvin Kilcrease (he led 2nd [5.7 lieback] and last pitches, I led the first and third [5.5 - 5.7 friction]). Excellent weather, great scenery, fun climbing

klwagar

klwagar - Jul 12, 2010 9:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2010

busy

Lots of folks so did one route here and then some on the bunny slopes and then the z tree on pieweiket. Sorry about the spelling. What great routes and granite. So this is what ya'll talking about!

SKI

SKI - Dec 30, 2009 8:56 pm Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2009

GWB, South Crack, West Country  Sucess!

Pretty sweet routes, nice view of Tenaya Lake

WML

WML - Oct 19, 2009 1:52 am Date Climbed: Oct 18, 2009

Sweet route!  Sucess!

Climbed via Great White Book, awesome route, BRING BIG PRO!

JHH60

JHH60 - Jul 24, 2009 5:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2009

West Country  Sucess!

On 7/20/09 led pitch 1 up to the flake. Was enjoying the view of Tenaya Lake until buddy got up to the belay stance and said he wasn't feeling well, so we climbed to top of Hermaphrodite flake and rapped down. I think it was the red wine he was drinking the night before (grr).

Went back with Rob on 10/24 and led pitches 1 and 3. Nice weather and no line at the base! On 10/25 Rob and climbed Hermaphrodite Flake (led pitch 2).

Groundswell

Groundswell - Mar 24, 2009 11:43 am

South Crack

climbed with tyler. lots of parties ahead and behind us. awesome views

Bonesaw

Bonesaw - Feb 23, 2009 9:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

West Country  Sucess!

Awesome route... especially pitch 2!

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Aug 15, 2008 2:33 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2008

See Below  Sucess!

South Crack (5.8, 6 pitches) -- August 14, 2008 -- Mary and I climbed this as our last route in Tuolumne during our road trip/Sacramento visit in 2008. We did the direct start up the thin crack (5.9) which made for a nicer start than the usual traverse into the crack. Some thin moves for sure. The crack was fantastic while it lasted. We opted for the variation finish described by SuperTopo and avoided the worst of the run-out slabs. The descent to Tenaya Lake was a piece of cake and we finished off the day with a swim in the lake.

West Country (5.7, 4 pitches) -- July 2, 2009 -- Mary and I did this route on a day trip to Tuolumne, soon after her arrival in CA. Fun climbing, although the corner on P2 involved some awkward gear placements. The slab on P3 was really casual. We enjoyed the views from the summit and then headed down the easy way and went to the store for lunch.

Hermaphrodite Flake to Boltway (5.8, 4 pitches) -- July 16, 2009 -- Mary and I did this climb on a warm afternoon after driving up from Fresno. I climbed the right side of the flake and I think it is a bit of a sandbag at 5.4. The face climbing off the top of the flake was precarious for about 20 ft, but it eased considerably afterwards. I'm getting tired of the descent off of Stately Pleasure.

Sierra Ledge Rat

Sierra Ledge Rat - Jul 17, 2008 11:05 pm

Dozens of free-solos of GWB

I free-soloed the GWB so many times I lost track. If a free-solo climber passed you on the GWB in 1978, and he had a tape player blasting Jimi Hendrix -- that was me.

Pawel Krol

Pawel Krol - Aug 12, 2007 11:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2007

Nice and sustained  Sucess!

Classic

darinchadwick

darinchadwick - Jul 8, 2007 5:25 pm

West Country and Boltway  Sucess!

West Country and the boltway so far, still looking for a chance to climb South Crack.

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