Page Type
Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Time Required:
Half a day
Rock Difficulty:
5.8 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Created On: May 27, 2011
Last Edited On: May 27, 2011


Nice alternative if Mueli and Modern Times are crowded.
FA: Gaby and Geny Steiger 26 July 1962
Bibliography: Gaddi, Andrea, Massino and Bregaglia: Regno del Granito, v. II, (Val d'Mello, Sasso Remenno, Albigna), (Sondrio, 2009), pp. 479-2. topo p. 479, photo diagram p. 480, description p. 481-2

Getting There

Take approach from hut as per Modern Times, etc. cross the wide scree gully below the couloir forming the right boundry of Modern Times. TAKE GREAT CARE. It should be obvious, but this gully is the where every bit of loose rock from the face is funnelled. There have been fatalities here. Helmet up before crossing, and cross low. Steiger starts on the bottom of the slabs on the other side

Route Description

Add Route Description text here.
P1-3: Slabs to base of a pillar, ~150m, 5.6/7
P4-7: Climb the piller, ~160m, 5.6/7/8
P8: Climb the face, 50m 5.8.
P9: Past a spike and through an overlap, 35m 5.8.
P10/11: Climb slabs, 90m, 5.6/8
P12: Climb along the ridge, 40m, 5.7

Essential Gear

50m double ropes
10 extending draws
some cams/nuts if you want extra pro or plan on continuing up via NW Ridge

External Links

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