The Steinhaushorn (sometimes spelled Steinhüshorn) is a rarely climbed mountain that is located between the Susten and Grimsel pass roads. Its view from top is excellent and its ascent from all sides is not difficult in summer. Then it it is often visited in combination with its neighbour Kilchlistock (Chilchlistock) that offers easy but recommended rock climbing. In spring it offers wonderful skiing but I recommend it only as part of a haute route from the Rhone glacier to the Susten region, since the ski ascent to the Windegg hut and Trift hut is dangerous and not suited for skiing.
Guttannen (1057 m)is starting point for several ascents:
a) NW-ridge from Furtwangsattel (2568 m) between Guttannen and Windegg hut. Climbing the saddle is a wonderful trip, more so than climbing the easy ridge.
b) Chamegg (ridge)
c) Gummichälen (couloir)
d) south east ridge from Kilchlistock (3114 m)
If you study these routes, you can easily see why few mountaineers climb this mountain. The beginners may appreciate the easy routes, but probably hesitate to climb more than 2000 m up. 5-6 hours.
Windegg hut (1887 m) is the starting point from north. Go down to the lower Trift glacier and climb the couloir that leads to point 2660 m and walk over snow to the summit.
The mountain is well suited for skiing from the Trift hut. Just cross the Trift glacier and walk to the summit. Skiing down via point 2660 m to the lower Trift glacier. To reach Tierbergli hut or Steingletscher (see Sustenhorn
) climb one of the couloirs on the east side of the glacier. Only for experienced skiers.
Books and maps:
Book: Clubführer Urner Alpen, West
Map Nr. 1230 Guttannen, 1:25'000 and
Map Nr. 1210 Innertkirchen 1:25'000 or
Map Nr. 255 Ski Sustenpass 1:50'000 or
Map Nr. 255 Sustenpass 1:50'000
See the Swisstopo Map
with many interesting features. Upload is in a seperate window.
1887 m, 36 places.
Start at the Susten pass road (bus from Meiringen) behind Gadmen (hotel, store, bus) at the bus station Kaeppeli (1021 m), You can take the Trift-cable car that brings you up to 1357m. Operating only in summer, form 09 am to 4 pm. On this ride you have an excellent view on one of the Triftwasser which flows through one of Switzerland's roughest gorge. Do not take the old path on the lefthand side of the valley (south), you never know if the path ends at an unsurmountable ravine. 1 - 2 hours from the upper cable car station.
An alternative way is to start at Furen (bus, free parking, ca. 1135 m). Walk to point 1131and after a few hundred meters along the road, a yellow sign shows the way to the Windegg and Trift hut. Schaftellaui - Hori - Underi Trift (mountain station of the cable car with small dam that collects the water of the Triftwater and leads it in a tunnel to the Haslital). Cross the bridge and follow the sighns to Windegg Hütte. 3 hours. Many ups and downs, beautiful, recommended.
See also webpage of Windegg hut
2520m , 60 places.
From the upper station of the Trift cable car, the way for the Windegg and Trift huts are the same up to ca. 1700 m. A huge sign separates the paths. At 1800 you will cross the highest suspension bridge that was built for tourists in the Alps:76m above the Triftwasser, 100 m long. If you feel a little funny, just think that the bridge could carry three trucks! Then follow the the path to the Trift hut. 4 hours from the cable car station.
From the Trift hut you can reach: Belvedere (Furka pass road), Tierbergli hut, Gelmer hut.
See also webpage of Hasli-huts
Small town on the Grimsel pass road, open all year. Hotel, dorm, store, gas station, bus to Meiringen.
When To Climb
Spring (ski), summer or fall.
For books, maps, webcams, trains, buses, weather, avalanches, rescue
see my list Swiss Links
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