Dow, we met a party of 7 French people there today (right behind us, luckily), and a party of 8 in front of us... Climbing was about 1.5 hrs, and waiting at anchors about 2.5 hrs. Luckily, a lovely day with some great views....
Dow Williams - Oct 15, 2011 7:07 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2011
Ancient Art
My second ascent. Led all the pitches with Joe K. in tow. That last pitch never gets old. I went more straight up left of the pin this time versus further left right off the diving board. The night we arrived, could not get on route due to a cluster of three in front of us who had no idea what they were doing, ropes and gear getting stuck. Then we came back in two days, same thing. A group of three, one at a time on second and third, no one had any clue what double ropes were. Took forever and I got the sunburn to prove it!!! IF YOU ARE GOING TO CLIMB IN GROUPS OF 3, BE RESPECTFUL AND SAFE AND LEARN WTF YOU ARE DOING. Beta page is a bit confusting on the rap I notice. Double 60m ropes get you to the ground from the large ledge below the final two short pitches.
Chimney pitch was awesome and fun. Summit pitch was crazy but didn't seem so bad because I never looked down! I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Loved it. Think I'd like to lead the chimney pitch next time.
shanahan96 - Mar 20, 2011 11:29 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2011
chimney yes, but screwed from there....until the second time!
4/15/11- returned w/aaron complete ancient art via the stolen chimney and corkscrew summit. the chimney was straight forward this time around, and i loved it! felt real good standing on top of this tower.
3/19/11- climbed the stolen chimney w/seth and AJ. the bolt ladder was a tad rough, yet P2 on the chimney itself was pretty cool and posed fun challenges to get past the roof and through squeezes higher up.
overall, a fun outing which i'll have to return and complete as the winds(~25-30 mph) were killing us at the top of the chimney and we didn't believe it would be wise to continue along the sidewalk and up the corkscrew while getting hammered continuously. another time for that
jamie
noahs213 - Jun 26, 2010 11:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2010
AWESOME
Def. harder then 5.10b if you free it all. Closer to 5.11 is what I think. Insane exposure and summit!
junoiceclimber - Apr 14, 2009 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2007
Summit of a Lifeclimbtime
A real doozy up beyond the chimney. Makes you want to spill the beans off the side.
SteveMarr - Mar 31, 2009 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2005
Great Climb
One of the best climbs I've done. When we arrived at the base of the route, we were the 6th party of the day - two were on the route, one was rapping the route, and two more parties showed up right behind us. Looking forward to climbing it again.
Rocker Paully - Mar 24, 2009 12:46 am Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2009
Fun!
not as heady as I was told it was. The exposure doesn't seem too bad after having tried the Titan
emilie - Jul 6, 2008 7:44 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2007
first desert climb
This was my first climb in the Moab area (or any desert really - I prefer high-altitude glacier climbing mainly). My bfriend was prepping for the 24 Hour of Moab race so I hired a guide and climbed Ancient Art as well as a few routes on Wall Street. To me, the exposure was pretty intense and I was just following. We had the route to ourselves but had an audience of hikers down below screaming "Oh my God! There are people up there!" :-)
Dow Williams - Jun 5, 2008 10:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008
Mud Fest!
Can you buy this much fun? I doubt it. I agree that the first pitch goes at 5.10a, no need to aid it (unless you are from CA and don't like cobblestone mixed with sand). Decent little nubins here and there through 3 bolts. By far the toughest free climbing is that 3rd short face pitch with a tough move or two (think left, not bolt line). The final pitch was a blast. We each had to lead it of course. It was interesting going first, not knowing exactly what lay ahead. Spooky exposure, but tons of fun and easy climbing.
JoeAllen - Jun 4, 2008 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008
I felt like I was being made to walk the plank on a pirate ship
I have heard a lot of horror stories about the rock/mud of the Fisher Towers. I didn't truly believe them until now. This is the most climbed route in the Fishers, and should be clean of loose rock by now right? Wrong. I believe all the stories now. Don't let this stop you from climbing the route. It is an easy (the climbing is not 5.11, but is really no harder than 5.10) climb, with a short approach, good protection, and the most spectacular summit in the desert. The mantle onto the diving board is exciting on the way up, and even better on the way down. I truly felt like I was being made to walk the plank.
MichaelJ - Apr 24, 2008 9:21 pm Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2008
fun and free
Climbed with Liz on a windy day. We both didn't think any of the free climbing was harder than 10a but still enjoyed the whole route.
rasgoat - Jun 19, 2013 12:14 am
SO NIceGreat little half day climb. Awesome summit. I really enjoyed the .10 pitches, chimney and the summit pitch. 10 a/b no more than that.
haishan - Mar 12, 2013 12:05 pm Date Climbed: Apr 20, 2012
Must doMust do, if only for the summit photo. I am no 10d climber, and the two bolted sections went by easily enough... 10a/b maybe?
SFH - Aug 15, 2012 12:54 pm
Good TimesFirst trip to Moab
strudolyubov - Apr 9, 2012 12:10 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2012
Ancient ArtClimbed Ancient Art with Yasu via Stolen Chimney route. Led all pitches. Fun route to the incredible summit!
fossana - Jan 1, 2012 12:52 am Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2011
last climb of the yearDaniel and I bailed on Jah Man due to frigid winds, but this was a great consolation route.
Rockclimber77 - Oct 24, 2011 1:52 am
What a great day!Even with a crowd of 20 other people on this short climb it was still a very fun climb! a french boy chose to summit in nothing but his harness... LOL
Liba Kopeckova - Oct 23, 2011 11:52 pm Date Climbed: Oct 22, 2011
great daylovely, but super crowded day. Great summit! Felt much easier than expected.
Liba Kopeckova - Oct 23, 2011 11:51 pm
Re: Ancient ArtDow, we met a party of 7 French people there today (right behind us, luckily), and a party of 8 in front of us... Climbing was about 1.5 hrs, and waiting at anchors about 2.5 hrs. Luckily, a lovely day with some great views....
Dow Williams - Oct 15, 2011 7:07 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2011
Ancient ArtMy second ascent. Led all the pitches with Joe K. in tow. That last pitch never gets old. I went more straight up left of the pin this time versus further left right off the diving board. The night we arrived, could not get on route due to a cluster of three in front of us who had no idea what they were doing, ropes and gear getting stuck. Then we came back in two days, same thing. A group of three, one at a time on second and third, no one had any clue what double ropes were. Took forever and I got the sunburn to prove it!!! IF YOU ARE GOING TO CLIMB IN GROUPS OF 3, BE RESPECTFUL AND SAFE AND LEARN WTF YOU ARE DOING. Beta page is a bit confusting on the rap I notice. Double 60m ropes get you to the ground from the large ledge below the final two short pitches.
McCannster - May 17, 2011 8:29 pm
Hell Yea!One of my favorite days out climbing.
SarahThompson - Apr 3, 2011 7:17 pm Date Climbed: Apr 1, 2011
Chimney lovers dream!Chimney pitch was awesome and fun. Summit pitch was crazy but didn't seem so bad because I never looked down! I'd do it again in a heartbeat! Loved it. Think I'd like to lead the chimney pitch next time.
shanahan96 - Mar 20, 2011 11:29 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2011
chimney yes, but screwed from there....until the second time!4/15/11- returned w/aaron complete ancient art via the stolen chimney and corkscrew summit. the chimney was straight forward this time around, and i loved it! felt real good standing on top of this tower.
3/19/11- climbed the stolen chimney w/seth and AJ. the bolt ladder was a tad rough, yet P2 on the chimney itself was pretty cool and posed fun challenges to get past the roof and through squeezes higher up.
overall, a fun outing which i'll have to return and complete as the winds(~25-30 mph) were killing us at the top of the chimney and we didn't believe it would be wise to continue along the sidewalk and up the corkscrew while getting hammered continuously. another time for that
jamie
noahs213 - Jun 26, 2010 11:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 27, 2010
AWESOMEDef. harder then 5.10b if you free it all. Closer to 5.11 is what I think. Insane exposure and summit!
junoiceclimber - Apr 14, 2009 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2007
Summit of a LifeclimbtimeA real doozy up beyond the chimney. Makes you want to spill the beans off the side.
SteveMarr - Mar 31, 2009 12:34 pm Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2005
Great ClimbOne of the best climbs I've done. When we arrived at the base of the route, we were the 6th party of the day - two were on the route, one was rapping the route, and two more parties showed up right behind us. Looking forward to climbing it again.
Rocker Paully - Mar 24, 2009 12:46 am Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2009
Fun!not as heady as I was told it was. The exposure doesn't seem too bad after having tried the Titan
emilie - Jul 6, 2008 7:44 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2007
first desert climbThis was my first climb in the Moab area (or any desert really - I prefer high-altitude glacier climbing mainly). My bfriend was prepping for the 24 Hour of Moab race so I hired a guide and climbed Ancient Art as well as a few routes on Wall Street. To me, the exposure was pretty intense and I was just following. We had the route to ourselves but had an audience of hikers down below screaming "Oh my God! There are people up there!" :-)
Dow Williams - Jun 5, 2008 10:23 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008
Mud Fest!Can you buy this much fun? I doubt it. I agree that the first pitch goes at 5.10a, no need to aid it (unless you are from CA and don't like cobblestone mixed with sand). Decent little nubins here and there through 3 bolts. By far the toughest free climbing is that 3rd short face pitch with a tough move or two (think left, not bolt line). The final pitch was a blast. We each had to lead it of course. It was interesting going first, not knowing exactly what lay ahead. Spooky exposure, but tons of fun and easy climbing.
JoeAllen - Jun 4, 2008 6:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2008
I felt like I was being made to walk the plank on a pirate shipI have heard a lot of horror stories about the rock/mud of the Fisher Towers. I didn't truly believe them until now. This is the most climbed route in the Fishers, and should be clean of loose rock by now right? Wrong. I believe all the stories now. Don't let this stop you from climbing the route. It is an easy (the climbing is not 5.11, but is really no harder than 5.10) climb, with a short approach, good protection, and the most spectacular summit in the desert. The mantle onto the diving board is exciting on the way up, and even better on the way down. I truly felt like I was being made to walk the plank.
MichaelJ - Apr 24, 2008 9:21 pm Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2008
fun and freeClimbed with Liz on a windy day. We both didn't think any of the free climbing was harder than 10a but still enjoyed the whole route.