Store Skagastolstind Additions and Corrections

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Ari - Mar 7, 2005 4:16 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

Store Skagalstølstind (often called simply Storen, 2405m) is the most sought after climbing peak in Jotunheimen and a superb mountain, perhaps the finest in Norway. Storen is third highest mountain of Scandinavia and unlike the two highest mountains, Storen has no easy route to the summit. Storen is located in Skagastølsmassivet, close to the junction of three major ridges: Styggedalsryggen (Gjertvasstind - Styggedalstind - Centraltind - Vesle Skagastølstinden), Skagastølsryggen (Store Skagalstølstinden - Vesle Skagalstølstinden - Nordre Skagastølstinden - Skagastølsnebbet) and Maradalsryggen. Styggedalsryggen joins Skagastølsryggen at Mohns Skar and Maradalsryggen joins Styggedalsryggen at Centraltind. Rock is mainly excellent gabbro.

The climbs are mostly long and start from the alpine grade AD-. Most popular route during the summer is Heftyes renne (NOR 4-, ~AD+), during the winter Andrews Renne may be a better alternative (NOR 3/3+, ~AD- during the summer). While the most popular routes are rock routes, some other routes (such as Nordvestveien, NOR 3/3+ or Slingsby Route, NOR 2) have significant sections on ice/snow). Ascent of Storen can easily be included in a traverse of either

Skagastølsryggen (NOR 4-, one day) or Styggedalsryggen (two days, NOR 3 to Mohns skar), both considered classics. It is also quite possible to combine both traverses into one very long outing.

Knut - Dec 6, 2005 8:15 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

To escape the crowded area around the Corner (Hjornet) and have a nice climb (3, 4 & 5-): try the (top of the) West-ridge. Make a traverse to the left approximately 15 meter from the real base of the Andrews Chimney. Instead of climbing up and into the (Andrews) gully from the first belay, travers to the left until the wall above you seems inviting. A short, steep, ropelength straight up brings you to the ridge that takes you to the bottom of a beautiful slab (5-) leading leading directly to the summit.


PeterCorneliusSpaeth - Aug 13, 2007 6:19 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Untitled Comment

Stuck behind a party at the belay below the Andres Renne, we had enough time to study the wall to the left. If I had cams I might indeed have started to traverse there. Funny to read that this is a good alternative.

Knut - Dec 6, 2005 8:27 am - Hasn't voted

Untitled Comment

To reach the Corner /Hjornet from the Skagastols-hut /Bandet is a steep walk. Go stright up and keep rather to the left until you are able to look directly into the Westwall. Some inviting terraces in the lower part might bring you to far to the right/east. Quite a few have ruined their day by not going stright up. Keep to the left rather than right at least in the beginning of the approach from Bandet.

The Jambo

The Jambo - Dec 9, 2007 8:31 am - Hasn't voted


James Baxter has now published his English language guidebook to the "Hurrungane", (ISBN 978-0955049705).

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