Excellent summit in true winter conditions, despite the apparent lateness in the season (at least to my non-Northern eyes). First attempt was to access the ridge via the V-Skaret. We met some skiers at the entry point to the couloir here who happily descended while we got out of their way. Approach8ing the notch, the weather was fine with little cloud cover and high Sun and low winds. At the top of the notch however the conditions changed drastically with very high winds (>70-80 kph?) threatening us. After an attempt at accessing the wall to our right, we decided it had bad mojo and descended into the valley to camp out at Hytten pa Bandet and have a crack at Andrew's Renne.
The next day we ascended up the snowy slopes with firm neve underfoot. After a short break under a boulder that lies to the left of the approach slope, we headed up along slabby firm snow. A running belay brought us to the first true belay point, from where my partner took the lead. A spooky step out to the left on the first pitch has you out onto a significant drop below, but the tools held well and there were some decent rock cracks for placement too. Towards the end of this pitch, my G12 crampon plastic strap broke and I nearly lost the entire crampon. Hanging there I managed a hasty repair through the remainder of the straps. Second pitch was belayed while straddling a large rock & ice spike, with the best climbing occurring on this pitch - beautiful & classic mixed route. Noticed evidence of a recent climb with some DMM nuts and cord left behind - anyone here? Some pitons lie along the route and allowed for some gear saving. Two short Petzl Lazer screws used, but would have preferred a thirst if we went again. The third and last pitch was perhaps the crux, at least from a conditions point of view with inclement weather approaching. Beautifully lead by my partner. At the top of the belay, just a running pair on the ropes to the summit with dreadful strom winds - 80 kph we estimated - not allowing us to stand on top and zero visibility. a quick summit video and then we beat a hasty retreat, abseiling out for 5 pitches and down to the hut again by 17.30. A great climb, the hardest I've been on so far and skills now built up for me to start pushing my own lead on similar if not same routes. A great trip and hope to be back for more.
Awesome climb. 17 hours round trip from the car park, although some time lost waiting for abseils. Perfect weather. The climbing up to Midtre Skagastølstind felt a bit sketchy due to loose rock and wet moss. The slab pitch on Vetle Skagastølstind also pretty hard for the grade and very exposed. In no condition to do anything the following day.
Done the following routes: Andrews renne, Tanbergs renne, Mohns skar via Slingsbybreen
Tried 2 times the rainy days before, until finally a 14 hour roundtrip in first good then wet conditions was successfull. We started by car in Bovertun, drove to Turtagro and were the last to touch rock this day. So were stuck behind a very slow guided party in the Andrews Renne. Since it started to rain and snow we did not want to wait longer and abseiled after pitch 1 of that route. Only to turn to Hornet, traverse and climb Heftys Renne. Given the wet and cold and having forgotten to leave the pack at Hornet, it was very hard for me leading. Arriving on top we had no views, and while abseiling the 50m rappel to Hornet, the ropes where tangled in very strong winds. We were more than happy to be back on safe ground later the day. As we looked back Store was lit by sun again :-( I recommend a very early start at Turtagro (5am latest) in order to avoid to be stuck behind guided parties. Decide on the final route late, since while approaching Hornet you still can decide which route has no traffic.
I assume the climb and the views can be very rewarding in good conditions. Though I will only come back in sunshine (rare in Hurrungane ;-) and try the Skagastols traverse then.
Totally awesome view from the summit of the surrounding "Hurrungane" area of Jotunheimen.
Weather was great this day. I think it was on the 9th of August.
Looong approach from the Turtagro hotel to the base of the mountain.
My friend Esben Evensen and I summitted in extraordinary conditions. Esben was leading, I was belay slave.
It is not commonplace that the rocks at 2400 masl in Norway are heated by the sun and warm and nice to touch, but they were this day. There were some fog in the valleys, but they only added to the magic of this mountain.
I found parts of the approach most scary. Being unfamiliar with the route, it is easy to enter a norwegian grade 3 colouir at that point. I avoided that, still some bare rock parts on the edge of the ridge was pretty airy. Once belayed, the climb was truly magnificient.