Sudwestkante, Heiliggeistwächter

Sudwestkante, Heiliggeistwächter

Page Type Page Type: Route
Additional Information Route Type: Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Spring, Fall
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: V+/VI-
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 6
Additional Information Grade: V
Sign the Climber's Log


Aghion Pnéwma and Heiliggeistwachter seen from NE
Heiliger Geist and Heiliggeistwachter seen from NE



The Heiliggeistwächter is a pillar 100 meters high, immediately located near the North-West face of the imposing Heiliger Geist and this situation explains the name given to the spire, which means "Holy Ghost Guardian". Sudwestkante is an easy 6-pitches route running on the South-west ridge of Heiliggeistwächter.
The route is perfect for beginners and it is a really good introduction to Meteora's multi-pitch climbing style. The route is straight and obvious; really easy (but boltless) climbing on the first three pitches. The last three pitches are a bit more interesting and better protected.

Getting There

The approach is short (15 min.) but it might be a bit tricky; from Kastraki, head toward Agios monastry, park the car in front of it and turn right on an unpaved downhill road (20 meter further on). In the proximity of a small building, turn left on a small path under big trees and reach the north ridge of the Heiliggeistwatcher. Round the pillar clockwise (i.e., the side of the pillar that looks at Doupiani).

Route Description

Sudwestkante (Heiliggeistwachter)
Sudwestkante (Heiliggeistwachter)



Pitch 1 (40m, II): really easy climbing but no bolts. The belay is on one big ring (the rest of the belays are always on two big rings).
Pitch 2 (40m, III): easy climbing, one bolt.
Pitch 3 (20m, III): easy climbing, no bolts.
Pitch 4 (20m, V+): easy climbing, three bolts.
Pitch 5 (20m, V/VI-): follow the bolt on the right and climb the crux (between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, well protected). Four bolts total. (there is a line on the left side of the pitch that skips the crux; no personal experience of it).
Pitch 6 (40m, IV): easy climb, four bolts.

Descent: on the side of the pillar that looks at the Heiliggeist, walk trough a small canyon and make a short rappel (10 meters) following a small water couloir. One long rappel of approx 50 m following the same water couloir (it is possible to split the abseil in two parts; a bolted route follows the couloir).

Essential Gear

Two 60m ropes (probably 50m is enough) and a set of quickdraws. No trad gear is required.

External Links

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