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Overview of our attempt at the E Arete.

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Misha

Misha - Sep 15, 2009 6:37 pm - Hasn't voted

What happened?

Why bailed? Will be attemtping this in two weeks

fossana

fossana - Sep 16, 2009 11:09 am - Hasn't voted

Re: What happened?

Hi Misha,

Compared to the rest of BCS I thought the rock quality on the lower section of the E Arete was of significantly lower quality. Some loose rock no problem, but I don't like crumbly, decomposing granite. We had soloed up to that point and it was mentally draining. I wasn't sure if the quality would improve and it was about to get more challenging, so we bailed.

p.s. You might send m_dquist a note. He and his partner climbed it shortly thereafter and said the rock quality improved after where we bailed. He also didn't find the quality of the rock to be disagreeable.

Misha

Misha - Sep 16, 2009 8:39 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: What happened?

Thanks. It does not surprise me given this route's infrequent visitors. Something tells me North Arete was not as clean 30 years ago :). I doubt that it is as bad as East Arete of Split (we were walking on eggshells on the first three pitches) but it is good to know. We probably wont be soloing either (simul and belay as needed). From your perspective, is this a doable CTC objective this late in the season?

fossana

fossana - Sep 18, 2009 11:30 am - Hasn't voted

Re: What happened?

I think its doable if you simul and are OK starting/ending in the dark. Mike said that it took them 13 hours CTC; note that they roped up for only a small portion. The approach took us just over 2 hours (we did it again recently for the SC). Good luck!

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