My 2nd route on Temple. The ridge is much shorter than Dark Star but I was in guide mode, so the day did take longer. If you cannot unrope, it does take awhile, but still a very manageable 12 hr day, camp to camp. We needed no crampons or ax despite a large snow year. Global warming. Never froze at night. Descent had snow all the way back to the base of the route, again, unusual snow year. On the crux pitch, I took the right variation past two pins, but never felt any 5.10a move. Only interesting beta to add is that Supertopo (not the FA topo) shows a 5.8 3" crack several pitches beyond the crux pitch. If you try to climb it to the top, that is 5.10 C4#4 climbing. But you exit out right about half way up. Cleaned up some bail stuff here as the FA topo shows going to a 5.4 gully out right. So someone got on it an decided to bail to the right. The 5.8 option is much more interesting, but prob way more of a crux for most budding trad climbers than the supposed crux pitch lower down. Cleaned up a ton of stupid rap webbing on descent. Please keep the litter down. If you cannot down climb 3rd class to reach the single descent rap, don't bother with this route. No climbers on the entire mountain on a Monday. Also, came across zero campers at 2nd Lake.
with Hamik....completed half the route, then ascended peak via the left Couloir. Rope got snagged right before the crux pitch, daylight hours sacrificed to free the rope. Great route and the tyrolean was the highlight!
yes there's better rock than dark star, at least till the end. this also makes is more sustained, with more class 5 till the end. but dark star is bigger! still, 4 or 5 of sun ribbon's pitches are pure excellence. crux pitch is notably harder than most everything else on the route.
What a great climb. Very fortunate to have a chance to be on a climb like this so early in my climbing life. Learned a lot from my partner and had a lot of fun on route. Good quality of rock on the arete. We did this next day after climbing Dark Star. Tyrolean traverse was quite interesting but we were able to set it up pretty quickly, not rocket science.
Soloed all but 25m on the crux pitch then traversed to Galey & Sill (Swiss Arete) with Mike C. Em & Bruce's topo was spot on.
I think I built it to be more difficult in my mind after reading the description years ago, but it wasn't bad at all! The 5.10 move on the "climber's right" might be a little airy, but easily protected with the pitons and nice crack. I shouldn't be one to talk though...I followed the whole way ;)
with Michal. Approach Fri, climb Sat, walk out Sun morning. Fun climbing, nothing too hard. The 10a section is not 10a at all, more like 5.8+. We got the tyrolian set up on our third try. 8 hrs from base to summit, we had no reason to rush.
The crux pitch wasn't that bad. We did the "climber's right" variation. Despite a late start (9:15am at the base of the route) and two other parties ahead of us we completed the route in 9h30min. Perfect weather conditions.
Climbed with tradmonkey, unfortunately winter got the best of us, and we had to bail into the 4th class gully to the summit just a couple pitches past the tyrolean. Awesome day though, and a lot of fun! http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/265579/sun-less-ribbon-arete.html
At the notch for the crux pitch I went right to a left facing flake was perfect because I set the belay at 100' and lowered the rope to haul the pack.
Super fun, any time you can do a tyrolean traverse on a route you gotta love it. We did it car to car in just under 14 hrs. I would love to go back and set up a base camp, there is a lot more to climb in there.
This climb was super fun with huge exposure all most the whole way up. It was all so a very long day and I really had to push myself.
18 hours car-to-car with travelin_light. This route is Badass! Some super airy climbing way up there, with a couple of difficult sections to keep you focused. We snagged the horn for the Tyrolean first try.