Sundial Crack

Page Type
North Carolina, United States, North America
Route Type:
Multi-pitch Technical Rock Climb
Time Required:
Half a day

Route Quality: 5 Votes

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Page By:
Sundial Crack
Created On: Sep 5, 2005
Last Edited On: Sep 5, 2005


Following directions to Looking Glass Trailhead. Continue past the trailhead parking lot and Pisgah Wildlife Education Center then onto a dirt road (FR 475). Take the right hand split (FR 475B). At about 1 mile you will pass Slickrock Falls area (South Side Climbing area of Looking Glass) continue on FR475B for another 1.8 miles to the parking lot for Sunwall Trail. There is a kiosk marking the parking area. Follow Sunwall Trail signs to reach the base of Looking Glass. Sundial Crack is the route directly where the trail meets the base of the rock.

Route Description

Don't let the name fool you...there is only about 20 feet of crack climbing on Sundial Crack. This route is often over looked because of its location; about 100 feet right of the Looking Glass classic, The Nose. Sundial Crack is a true classic on its own, though.
Actual time to climb and rap will depend on a number of factors.

Pitch 1: 5.5, 85 feet. Climb Looking Glass eyebrows to nice ledge and chains anchors.
Pitch 2: 5.8, 100 feet. Diagonal up and right, heading towards a 2 bolt belay station directly below and right of the "Sundial Crack".
Pitch 3: 5.7, 110-120 feet. Climb the crack and continue working up to a natural gear belay. Remember to save gear for the belay.
Pitch 4: 5.6, 150 feet. Climb up and eventually work left to the 2 bolt belay station above The Nose.

Three double rope rappels, using rappel stations, will get you back to the ground.

Essential Gear

Standard North Carolina Free Climbing Rack - I prefer a selection of Aliens (blue, yellow, green, red), Metolius four-cams (orange, yellow, red) and a few larger friends (1.5, 2, 2.5, 3.5), 10-12 double length slings with biners, 2 cordelettes and about 4 locking biners. Tri-cams and nuts also work well. Didn't use either last time.

Miscellaneous Info

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